Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could you refer me to a cracked Raw Brokerage manifold? As we've yet to receive a complaint from any one.

I'm sure our one piece billet stainless collectors are stronger than a fabricated unit on any other setup:

1lBoYNNl.jpg

TopCat run's one on his 1000hp Time Attack Car, no problems:

4WVdyTI.jpg

WOW. Any more info on that car? I can't find anything on google

Just bought my second 6boost manifold and I think its great build quality and performance, would highly recommend

attachicon.gif2014-06-26 12.26.37.jpg

attachicon.gif2014-06-26 12.27.22.jpg

Your car makes me very jealous.

  • Like 1

You cant be serious? ;)

Perfect robotically tig welded runs as apposed to the shit 6boost welds? As far as I know the full race manifolds are schedule 40 pipe just the same as the 6 boost.

I've had both 6Boost and full-race (as mentioned above) in the sr20 configuration. The pipe diameters were the same and quality were both excellent but would sway towards the 6Boost for a better quality finish (this is back in 2008). The full-race is a heavy bugger being cast stainless and comes with lifetime warranty to the original purchaser....as I think the 6Boost does too.

Its not the welds - but rather the pipe to flange fitment i found the 6Boost to be better. I spent some time with a die grinder blending on the full-race. No such "tidy-up" was required on the 6Boost.

Interesting observation....the 6Boost also runs a shallower angle merge collector compared to the full-race and the above billet collector. Better.....who knows?

The full-race runs cast stainless pipe whereas the 6Boost does not. Perhaps the cast stainless is heavier.

On the jig

full-racemani.jpg

full-racemani2.jpg

On the car

ExhaustTurboIACVblock026.jpg

ExhaustTurboIACVblock025.jpg

ExhaustTurboIACVblock015.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1

I took these pics at work for work. They are both SR20DET twin scroll twin gate manifolds.

6boost is ceramic coated so all it's joins are smoothed out and so are it's welds, so it's not the most fair comparison but we'll work with what we got.

On 6boost you can see that there is surface rust already forming on the uncoated parts but the flange-to-pipe and "merge collector" are better compared to Full-race. Full-race ports each runner and the collector. Full-race is raw so you can see the welding is undeniably superior due to machine welding, it's stainless steel which has a few advantages including handling high heat better than the 6boost mild steel. Full race is a few hundred more expensive (in terms of SR20DET) so it's up to you if the advantages are "worth it".

Hope that helps :)

fullraceVS6boost1.jpg
fullraceVS6boost2.jpg
fullraceVS6boost3.jpg
fullraceVS6boost4.jpg
fullraceVS6boost5.jpg
fullraceVS6boost6.jpg
fullraceVS6boost7.jpg

A look inside the Raw Brokerage 304SS billet collector which is exact 100% of the time eliminating human error as well as variance in jigging. They're designed to have a shallow transition and identical primary merging:

5UIxdlMl.jpg

2,000 deg temp coated Raw Brokerage Billet Series Manifold:

C2wpKWNl.jpg

Just wondering if these manifold in twin scroll are quality product ?

My mechanic told me to stay away from Rawbrokerage because he saw too many cracking. He recommand 6boost (1600us) or Full-race ( 1800ish us) + shipping ( figure another 50-75us$)

While the 6boost is 1360us delivered. Is there any other manifold option for an EFR single ?

Having seen the pics the Rawbrokerage item is worlds away from the cheap ebay stainless manifolds that do crack and fail.

Has your mechanic seen an actual Rawbrokerage manifold that has failed?

So much idle gossip in this business but seeing is believing.

And slightly off topic that Top Cat car seems to be running one of the few 3.4L equipped RB30s! (want one for my car).

Could you refer me to a cracked Raw Brokerage manifold? As we've yet to receive a complaint from any one.

I'm sure our one piece billet stainless collectors are stronger than a fabricated unit on any other setup:

1lBoYNNl.jpg

TopCat run's one on his 1000hp Time Attack Car, no problems:

4WVdyTI.jpg

It's definitely a beautiful manifold but it sits ridiculously high (but maybe that's an rb30 specific problem)... 1000hp on an 8374 is a bit of a stretch too!

  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old thread but I am in the market for a T4 split pulse manifold.

The 6-Boost runners all look the same length albeit quite long but the pulsing should be smooth and even however the Doc Race and Full race do not look to be equal length runners, which would not be so good. Looks can be deceiving but that is what it looks like to me.

The stainless ones look pretty though.

6-Boost gets my vote. Function before Form!!

I know this is an old thread but I am in the market for a T4 split pulse manifold.

The 6-Boost runners all look the same length albeit quite long but the pulsing should be smooth and even however the Doc Race and Full race do not look to be equal length runners, which would not be so good. Looks can be deceiving but that is what it looks like to me.

The stainless ones look pretty though.

6-Boost gets my vote. Function before Form!!

664B16D5-A6E9-4D53-AD0A-61AFB2982E1E_zps

For what it's worth. A 6 Boost manifold on a RB26 based block with a 8374 1.05 ass end on it.

My mate is having trouble with his 6 boost manifold cracking, all the ones I have seen never have enough reinforcement on the welds.

Any he bought the manifold new but wasn't the original purchaser so they are not honoring the lifetime warranty which I think is disgraceful.

Just another reason I would never get one.

Really looking forward to your results Piggaz!

Will you tune it first on 98 before changing over to e85?

It's flex tuned so I'll post up both results.

98 is always a "commuter fuel". So I never really push it that hard. 20-22 psi on petrol it will be.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...