Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so after so shits and giggles I have been looking at turbos to replace the ones on my cars

For the R32 I'm looking at twin Kinugawa Billet TD04H-19Ts, should give same response with more top end

Chance of working 95%

For the R34 I'm looking at either Kinugawa Billet TD06L2S-20Gs or Garret GTX3071rs with the front housing off my HKS GT-RSs and some Kando T25 GT30 rear housings, should give good response and quench the RB30s thrust for air :D

Chance of working 80%

This thread is about odd twin turbo setups, if you have some post em and why and an estimated chance of working like you want them to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445007-the-frankinstien-twin-turbo-thread/
Share on other sites

I'm looking at doing a set of -7s with billet kinugawa 60mm comp wheels (basically -5 size) on a 2.6 for a bit of an experiment

Chance of working at a guess 75% provided it doesn't go straight to surge due to the smaller front housings

I'm monitoring this thread. Curious what GTX3071's could do in twin form. Also what kind of manifold would you need for twins that size?? I've never pulled a gtr apart so I don't really know how much room there is

I'm monitoring this thread. Curious what GTX3071's could do in twin form. Also what kind of manifold would you need for twins that size?? I've never pulled a gtr apart so I don't really know how much room there is

over 500kws and a cracked block ;)

I'm looking at doing a set of -7s with billet kinugawa 60mm comp wheels (basically -5 size) on a 2.6 for a bit of an experiment

Chance of working at a guess 75% provided it doesn't go straight to surge due to the smaller front housings

That is an interesting idea, that Hawkins dude put -7 comp housings on to -5s and got decent results with it and with the Billet wheel should be even better :)

I'm monitoring this thread. Curious what GTX3071's could do in twin form. Also what kind of manifold would you need for twins that size?? I've never pulled a gtr apart so I don't really know how much room there is

That's more an idea then something that will actually happen, but if it was possible/managed to do it would easy pass 500kw, I have got 458kw with the GT2871Rs ( HKS GT-RSs ) and got boost limited due to the rear wheels choking it at over 28psi

My idea is Kando T25-GT30 rear housing to bolt in to the factory location on the standard manifolds and use the GT-RSs front housings to keep the engine bay as stock looking as possible :D

mick i have a hks 3037s twin kit your r34 would like

I actually looked that up, the 3037s are GT3076Rs and are to much comp wheel for what I'm after and also very unlikely to fit the factory location :(

over 500kws and a cracked block ;)

500kws at the wheels is the idea, but why would that crack my block, can the RB30s not take that much power

That is an interesting idea, that Hawkins dude put -7 comp housings on to -5s and got decent results with it and with the Billet wheel should be even better :)

that was what I thought he did, makes me feel even more confident now

500kws at the wheels is the idea, but why would that crack my block, can the RB30s not take that much power

I have seen a few cracked blocks lately on cars running e85, seems the cylinder pressure just splits the bore from bottom to top. It's totally up to your tuner, and how much timing he decides to run, I hope he is good because you can't see massive cylinder pressure, and you can't know when it is too much for your block to handle.

My suggestion is to keep the bore thick, not oversize the pistons. Or perhaps sleeve the block...any strength there will help.

What about the FP HTA 68 mm comp wheels, Micky?

I did think about them cause they are a good piece of gear but with what exhaust side, Owen Developments do one boltin for the RB26 but it is still the same rear wheel as I have now which isn't big enough :(

Would be good in your -5s though :)

Brett's idea is would be even better for you though me thinks and the idea of this thread, bitsa turbos in twin form, engine doesnt really matter just throw together turbos you have done or have thought about doing :thumbsup:

Hmm.

Would 0.84 housings fit in a stock position? It would mean custom dumps but.

Those 68's are too big for me. If I did anything, prob the 60 mm gtx's in stock housings.

Lithiums idea was a rip snorter. The trust t517's with their bigger rear wheel and the FP 68 mm front fans. I think that's what it was.

Hmm.

Would 0.84 housings fit in a stock position? It would mean custom dumps but.

Those 68's are too big for me. If I did anything, prob the 60 mm gtx's in stock housings.

Lithiums idea was a rip snorter. The trust t517's with their bigger rear wheel and the FP 68 mm front fans. I think that's what it was.

Kando have a billet Kinugawa TD05H-18G that would be close enough to Liths idea, same exhaust wheel and housing and a Billet 68mm comp wheel, just not the HTA gear, which I would consider one step up from where I am now

3071's seem to work fairly well for a 3L engine, this is another members car on aus300zx. Not an RB but still 3L :P

98 RON 446rwkw 23PSI

98 RON+ Water Injection 489rwkw 23PSI3runcomp001.jpg

That doesn't look all that laggy given twin GT30 rears on a 3.0, give me hope of a good result if I go that way :thumbsup:

Hmm.

Would 0.84 housings fit in a stock position? It would mean custom dumps but.

Those 68's are too big for me. If I did anything, prob the 60 mm gtx's in stock housings.

Lithiums idea was a rip snorter. The trust t517's with their bigger rear wheel and the FP 68 mm front fans. I think that's what it was.

not they wouldn't fit cause they don't make a compact .84 housing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...