Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On different setups, I ran the GTX2860's with the stock anti surge front housings with welded on flanges in my 2.8. In short they come on boost later than a 2860-5. They are quieter though

he modified the gtx housings to fit the Gtr

Yes married Thursday

I'M back again with more news... mechanic told me my oil seal is leaking and if i dont change it, turbos will need rebuild. Since I'm not doing any mechanic on my car, i thought.. if im going to pay labour $ to have my seal/gasket redone, I might as well check my turbo and swap them with brand new turbos to recover optimal performance of the car.

I found out about a company called Pure turbos..

They ask 1100$ to have both turbos rebuilt with new brass cage and new billet wheel. ( they say it will be as good as brand new turbos , if not better due to brass cage and billet wheel)

Now heres where i need your help... they offer me a 60mm billet wheel which should yeild a 40hp/per turbo upgrade ( probably taken from the gtx2860's figure) and a 63mm which would yeild 80hp/per turbo. They say turbo spool shouldn't be noticeable and if it was their engine, they would go 63mm.

I'm scared the 63mm will actually be too laggy and i have doubt about their claims on spool. if I had 2.8 stroker.. it would be a different story, but I'm only on a rb26 with 86.5mm.

What front compressor housing are you using, normal -5 or surge slotted? You will be more at risk of compressor surge with a bigger compressor wheel.

-5s housing !

Considering you only wanted 500-550 Whp, it's a not brainer. 60 MM wheel!

I also feel the same.. but you know.. if the lag is going to be 200ish rpm and your gaining an extra 40hp/turbo.. it's interesting lol.

200 rpm is heaps!!!!

Very true, people don't seem to understand what a few hundred rpm can do to a car...

My T88 on dyno was only 500rpm (ish) slower to get 15psi on the dyno compared to the 6262, on the road/track it went from being horribly laggy to very responsive

  • Like 1

^^ *like*.

Micko's old man changed his exhaust and went back to a stock airbox on his GTR. Overlay the graphs and it was 200 rpm everywhere. TOTALLY different car to drive. It went from a car which did nothing under 5000 rpm to be able to drive it quickly quite easily.

60mm. Do it. Don't forget you have a 2.6 too. A bigger engine you'd get away with it.

  • Like 1

Some open pods. Mmmm all that yummy hot air!

It was a 33 though. Different design to a 32 box.

I know I'd make more power going back to an air box but I'd never thought about earlier spool as I wouldn't have thought it would have made a difference.

I'm pretty sure I'd still be fine with a standard box at 325kw.

The whole shebang coming on earlier was more to do with sorting the pos "jap" exhaust out. Getting rid of the rubbish restrictive mufflers and mismatched pipes. Going back to the airbox was just something he did at the same time.

  • Like 2

Yep picked up 15-20kw throughout the midrange to redline. Was a night and day difference really was much nicer to drive and also made power feel more progressive not just a BANG & it was alive at 5000rpm :)

Very true, people don't seem to understand what a few hundred rpm can do to a car...

My T88 on dyno was only 500rpm (ish) slower to get 15psi on the dyno compared to the 6262, on the road/track it went from being horribly laggy to very responsive

There are times I've seen NO difference in spool on the dyno and still a very noticeable difference in practical use - dynos can be quite misleading at times!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...