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Back together! Frigging runs GOOD too!

The only issue I saw anywhere was a bolt in the fan shroud. Very well could have flung around there and then got caught in shroud and was being hit by fan? No clue because sound is 100% gone.

Got everything checked and bled (wow it's easy to bleed with a swirl tank) and warmed up. Found out one part of my tune was setup wrong and off we went driving!

Quickly tuned in a mild pull (10 psi) after about 30 min of roughing it out. I AM LOVING THIS COMBO! It's going to be a nasty street car!!!

https://youtu.be/P5Txo9O4DXg

  • Like 2

Nothing changed at all. I'm telling you it had to be the bolt in the fan or something with an accessory. I didn't take pistons out. I did all this work with the engine in the car.

I stand behind my engine building still (my dad's a machinist, I learned a LONG time ago).

It does. The bottom port is Tee'd into the fittings behind the water pump (the one that circulates all the time no matter the thermostat position. The cap to the radiator is a fixed cap that allows fluid to overflow the radiator and head to the swirl pot. The three fittings in the hypertune head vent out the gases and into the swirl pot. When you rev the car at all it spins pretty violently...like over revving makes a vortex launch out of the top (which goes everywhere!)

Also I wanted to share that the Borg Warner Match bot program with the VE numbers I used HERE in post #9 look like they are reflecting my boost threshold PERFECTLY. Maybe missed the threshold by 100 rpms.

My low rpm matchbot prediction @ 21 psi: here

My high rpm matchbot prediction @ 21 psi: here

My low rpm matchbot prediction @ 10 psi: here

My high rpm matchbot prediction @ 10 psi: here

This is the screenshot of my latest log showing boost threshold. It's a punch from 2800 rpms in 3rd gear and just riding boost up.

5 psi by 3,000 rpms

9 psi by 3,600 rpms

Also added a simple excel graph of what the matchbot software says my flywheel horsepower should be in these cases.

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little stuff today. Washed the car, fitted front air dam (forgot to get pics after), mounted battery permanent with the lightest battery hold down EVER, finished a few other odds and ends. Got the car cranking and idling pretty dang good, going to start boost tuning tomorrow (I hadn't read the haltech on boost tuning, I just turned it all off for now).

So tomorrow I'm hoping to build maps up to 14 psi boost (my goal anyway). Still likely going to limit to 7500 rpms and be weak on timing.

Went through haltech software and also setup a few other things I had overlooked (or had cut out for now). It was a pain getting the car to start up at all temp settings. They all kind of layer on each other and I was seeing WAY too much fuel on cranking (causing flooding when hot)

I'll be in touch more soon!!

Also I'm writing this here because I keep forgetting to do it.

adjust clutch

fix seatbelt latch

find reverse lights! (JDM apparently).

catch can vents (car hasn't puked a DROP of oil with the Mine's triple-baffle covers in it...of course I'm not on a road course yet).

Also 4wd light is on and feels like rear diff is loose. Gonna need a better one there.

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my 4wd light was coming on cos the fluid in the boot was low., give it a bleed with new fluid and it might just fix the issue.

I completely bled it when I did the overhaul. Followed the "pull the white plug in kickpanel" and all that. Seems all good there. I keep forgetting to check the led light on the box when I finish driving.
  • Like 1

4WD works for a while then light comes on for TPS (21 blinks). I'm sure it has to do with the fact that I adjusted the tps to read about .5% on the TPS in the Haltech. I'll adjust it out in the tune to remove that 1% on the output and I will bet it will be fixed.

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