Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Pipe Keeps Popping Off


rb25debt
 Share

Recommended Posts

I had hoses popping of at 16 odd PSI, when i changed a few over to Norma SS t bolts never had a issue. Held on 22psi good too

Pump some air into it and see how well the T bolts hold, they all leak in the same place, as the part between the clamps has no pressure on it. Stick to standard worm clamps, and don't overtighten them or you will need to replace them each time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pump some air into it and see how well the T bolts hold, they all leak in the same place, as the part between the clamps has no pressure on it. Stick to standard worm clamps, and don't overtighten them or you will need to replace them each time.

Sorry, its the worm clamps ive got :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So it turns out because the shell is just a GTS, it still had the Rb20de fuel pump, i have got an aftermarket walbro fuel pump and i put it in and it's running alot better, i am going to try find a rb25det neo turbo and put it back to stock until i can afford a better ecu and tune. For some reason since earlier today when i come up to stop at lights etc, the car dies? could this be a air leak?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got a different type of clamp on every connection in my ic piping. 19psi and nothing has ever popped off.

Ling long turbos. I love it.

Stall on stop could be a leak, reversion or atmo vent.

Man you're driving a Frankenstein. Honestly if i was you id sell it and buy another car. A gts shell with an rb25det will get you into all hell with the law. Brakes, suspension, registration info will all be out of whack with this motor in that shell.

Edited by SargeRX8
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got a different type of clamp on every connection in my ic piping. 19psi and nothing has ever popped off.

Ling long turbos. I love it.

Stall on stop could be a leak, reversion or atmo vent.

Man you're driving a Frankenstein. Honestly if i was you id sell it and buy another car. A gts shell with an rb25det will get you into all hell with the law. Brakes, suspension, registration info will all be out of whack with this motor in that shell.

Haha yea it is a frankenstein but its running alot better now, its all certed for the engine swap, has 4 pot front brakes and 2 pot rears and adjustable suspension. And i just got it a fresh warrant of fitness no problem haha

Edited by rb25debt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

I never read each and ever post but heres what I would do, 1 figure out what your boosting frosure for more reasons than one, 2 add a lip where pipe is popping off. 3 hair spray the joint and try and spray a little air inbetween the cupler and the pipe helps dry the hair spray and really grabs(old bike grib trick).  then ditch all the t clamps you have cause there shit and unnecesarry and grab some normal worm clamps tighten them down and give it a shot. no need to over think the issue....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What's wrong with the OEM filter. They do the job perfectly. As to your actual problems. Stop driving the. Take it to a mechanic. If you actually do have a fuel delivery limitation and you are putting it under load, you could be killing it.
    • Enjoy Japan!  Need someone to carry your bags........??
    • I don't know the answer, but my uneducated guess is this will not work (or, not as you want it to). I would wire the SLD into VSS1, I bet that is what the limiter uses However, I also bet the ECU compares VSS1 and VSS2 and throws and error if they are different. Best suggestion I can make is wire it into VSS1 and see how you go, I guess the error will only appear above 180 when then SLD is active. If it appears at lower speeds put a switch into the SLD earth (or power supply) and only turn it on when you need to go over 180.
    • Hi all, So, looking to do some general maintenance on the car, as it has developed a some slight (related?) problems; Three problems that I think are related. 1999 R34 GTR RB26 - engine will sometimes cut out while left on idle, but will keep going if I keep throttle input. Usually after having driven a while. Its random, somedays wont happen at all, others will happen once or twice in a half hour drive. - Second issue is that while driving, the car will sometimes not be able to get past 3k rpm, no matter how much throttle input I apply. - Lastly, car will sometimes be real laggy climbing through rpm, but if I apply lots of throttle problem will seem to clear and go back to normal. All issues come and go, again somedays no sign of any problem, other days will just be stuttering around for ages.   I think it might be either the fuel system, or maybe the AFM?   Either way, I am going to clean the AFMs, and replace the fuel filter, use some injector cleaner in the next few fill ups, and might look at doing the fuel pump aswell.   Question I have, is filter such as; https://www.efisolutions.com.au/pro-fuel-filter-30-micron-an8-orb-black Fine to replace the normal filter? Their product page says as a prefilter only and not as the main EFI filter, so I'm guessing I would still need the stock one? Can I get an aftermarket one that has AN8 fittings to replace the OEM one? Or is the OEM one just something you have to live with?
    • I say this and there’s a Nistune r34 GTT MT ECU for sale on eBay.de but I need to figure out compatibility between the AT harness and MT ECU - TCS considered. I figure this HKS SLD is a quick bandaid anyhow. 
×
×
  • Create New...