Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better fuel economy, because better torque.

You don't have to ring it's neck now.

On a road trip to Adelaide, I was getting the same economy as a 34gtt.

They said the motor had plenty of work on the Dyno and was driven around for a couple of days. The limiter was on and I drove it the same as usual on the way back, well not exactly, 5000rpm limit and no boost :)

Even without the final tune it was much better, especially on the twisty bush road were torque helps. I know blokes say it is only a gear change away (or 2 ), but

Totally different car to drive, I think I will get rid of the next 1000Klms very quickly and final tune done :)

Good news Pete glad to hear its sounding promising!!

So does the off boost driving satify you/compete with the TT VQ motor?

Yeah it seemed forever

I do not think it is as good as the TT350GT with the run in tune , 3.5 Lts, newer type motor and toss in a couple of turbos, different car, but after the tune, cams dialed in for response, with the limiter on 7500 - 8000rpm, I would put my money on the 34 :)

But the main difference for me is, I like to drive the R as the GT was an Auto and I got sick of no stick :cool:

I think I have to qualify what I have said as best I can :/

Both cars from idle ( no launch) to 4000rpms the 350 would beat the 34, the 34 has a motor that is has not had the final tune and I have no real idea what difference it will make to the response. But if the run in tune is a guide it should be pretty good.

The 34 with the final tune, approximate 100awkw extra with a bit more response, it would be interesting from idle.

Congrats on getting it back on the road

Thanks Daz

yeah good to be driving it again, now have to get the Klms done and tune it up and see what the sucker will do :)

  • Like 1

Should be done by Tuesday afternoon.

Chop chop!

Going to try for the Easter school holidays and stay a few days in Sydney.

If they can do it around that time we might be able to meet up after the tune and get your opinion on how it goes :/

They said most of the work needed was done on the Dyno , he said he likes about 1500Klms the motor before the final tune. Said to just drive it as normal but has set the limiter to 5000. Not sure how this works as they take it to 8000 on the Dyno.

They changed the oil after the run in, I have to keep an eye on the water and oil levels for a while, no problems after 400Klms :)

Took it for a run this morning, very smooth but needs the final tune to get more going on down there and lift the limiter out to 80000 :)

Did a few tests on low speed 60 in 6th, no problem anywhere and the same with all of the higher gears, I would say 2 gears better even with the run in tune.

It will be interesting to see what or any difference after the final tune to the low RPMs driving, I am sure it will be mad past 3500

Took it for a run this morning, very smooth but needs the final tune to get more going on down there and lift the limiter out to 80000 :)

Did a few tests on low speed 60 in 6th, no problem anywhere and the same with all of the higher gears, I would say 2 gears better even with the run in tune.

It will be interesting to see what or any difference after the final tune to the low RPMs driving, I am sure it will be mad past 3500

that rev limit! :P

get off sau and drive it

Hi Dave, they said it was set at 5000rpm, I recon it kicks in at 4500rpm , so there is not much time as the turbo starts to work. It is not mad , just very linear from 0-100 ish

Piss off, went for 100klms before my daughter woke up this morning, no traffic , it was nice to drive this car now as is , after the final should be magic :)

I wouldn't expect much change to low revs power (below 3500) after the final tune realistically.

Glad to e proven wrong though

I also hope you are wrong and look forward to trying to prove it, lol

I was hoping for the thing to be spooled by 4000rpms after the tune. I was expecting it to be approximately a 800 to 1000rpms sooner than it was before the build using the same PT6262, but with the new OS Valves and the UE cams getting a bit more air in there , but that may be just wishful thinking :/

Good to see you have it back and hopefully I will get to see it when final tune is done, would be nice to compair side by side with my 3.0 34

It will improve a good amount when they start playing with cam timing, if there is something CRD do well its cam timing, I still use the settings they did on my 32 from 8 years ago and they should have learnt more since then

Dave was pointing out the rev limit is to be set to 80,000rpm :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...