Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have looked through the forums and have come up with a few posts, but all seem to be different to my situation

Put simply my car is Basically Stock, Pod ( in a insulated box ) and a 3Inch turbo back Stainless exhaust. 4inch hotdog in the middle and a very free flowing Cat

other then that completely stock, no boost controller, turbo timer, bov etc. so nice and stock

Once the car is at a operating temperature, It will give occasional little "pops" and after a good 5minutes of driving aggressively it will shoot flames with a nice bang.

now im not complaining. it sounds great and looks awesome,

it's not running rich, or Lean I am getting on average 380-500kms per tank and 10-12L per 100km. with a good 10L left in the tank when I fill up.

now, everyone else is blaming the cars, tuning or lack of a cat. I am assuming mine is simply because of the cat.

As everyone in other posts have recently had a Tune or car is running badly etc and mine is not, I figured I should simply ask

I am also not losing power etc. have had this exhaust for 7 months, from the moment it went on the car did it. nothing has changed since

if there is a post I missed explaining this further, my bad, guess ill look harder next time.

post-134861-0-95272800-1418442521_thumb.jpg

post-134861-0-46752500-1418442598_thumb.jpg

Edited by CaptainFresh

"have had this exhaust for 7 months, from the moment it went on the car did it"

"it's not running rich, or Lean"

"everyone in other posts have recently had a Tune or car is running badly etc and mine is not"

"I am also not losing power etc"

i might have missed the actual question?

Edited by GH05T

.... wow, I forgot to actually say my question. simply put,

would my car be doing this because of the exhaust or is there a more serious underlying problem, as the car is still running beautifully i'd like to double check

I was meaning no aftermarket bov. the car is "nice and stock" didn't think I had to specify everything that was stock. as I already said the 2 only mods on it.

Put simply my car is Basically Stock, Pod ( in a insulated box ) and a 3Inch turbo back Stainless exhaust. 4inch hotdog in the middle and a very free flowing Cat

other then that completely stock, no boost controller, turbo timer, bov etc. so nice and stock"" thought that was fairly clear.


i would say if you put a big exhaust on with a "very free flowing cat" and from that day it started it then i would highly suggest this is the cause, but if its only causing this then i doubt there is any other underlying issue.

if it were me maby its time to get it tuned a little

I wouldn't worry about it.

Perhaps it's running a touch rich, well it would be due to not being tuned. They all run too rich.

I asked about the bov as people consider (incorrectly) running no bov or a blocked bov is still stock.

  • Like 1

You don't say exactly what condition causes it to "pop". It might be that the TPS isn't shutting off correctly, causing the engine to over-fuel on gear changes (throttle closed situations).

The flames can often be caused by a small leak in the exhaust that allows fresh air to be drawn into the exhaust to mix with hot fuel-rich gasses, creating an explosive mixture.

Is the car Manual or Auto?

I only ask as mine was factory Auto but converted to Manual but still had the Auto ECU.

It would pop etc when off the throttle (especially with gutted cat).

Changing to a Manual ECU reduced it.

Edit* Great Flame Photo too. :thumbsup:

Ok thank you for the replys, the car is factory manual. So not concern with Ecu.

I will be getting a tune once I get a intercooler anyways...

No leaks in the exhaust, all brand new. no loose bolts etc.

It seems to do it very often.. since do writing this I've got my mate to follow behind. Once I've been driving for 20 or so, of normal driving. If I full throttle through 2nd, as soon as I change gears a nice big flame.. makes for great footage lol

Very noticeable at night, scared the crap out of me, thought I went past a speed camera

Not concerned with police, I live in a semi rural location. The police station closes at 4 in the arvo, so basically the police dont care

I am more concerned with the possibility of it doing damage somehow.

Thanks for the info/help.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...