Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've been long pondering the idea of converting my factory CAS based ignition system to a trigger wheel configuration. Upon much investigation's I found that there are 2-3 kits on the market for the RB engine series that range from the basic setup to the extreme where everything in included which in some cases is much overkill.

I decided to design my own setup, Having a 3d printer and CNC mill at home I thought how hard could it be - Really. I spent a few hours in CAD drawing up what I would expect to work with my RB20 and a factory CAM gear.

Crank Bracket:

post-23119-0-25122100-1419828731_thumb.png

Cam Bracket:

post-23119-0-32917600-1419828724_thumb.png

From here I set to work printing them out and dummy fitting the sensors to check my measurements

Crank Sensor Mount: (Sorry only v1 image but you get the idea)

post-23119-0-81279200-1419829058_thumb.jpg

Cam Sensor Mount:

post-23119-0-36744700-1419829073_thumb.jpg

With a few adjustments everything lined up perfectly!

The moment of truth arrived and I set to creating the tool paths to cut the parts from aluminium on the mill at home. I've thus far only made the final crank sensor mount.

post-23119-0-80170400-1419829067_thumb.jpg

After the above was machined I then set to modify the factory rb26 balancer as the trigger:

post-23119-0-86650600-1419829093_thumb.jpg

Once machined I mounted the balancer back to the engine and confirmed fitment of the mount and sensor

post-23119-0-80170400-1419829067_thumb.jpg

post-23119-0-65237500-1419829069_thumb.jpg

So this is the progress so far of my Christmas break with a week 1 week down and another to go I hope to have the trigger finger for the cam gear sorted in the next day or so and will post my progress.

If anyone would like a copy of the CAD files please PM me I am happy to hand them out and once everything is sorted hope to be able to offer these to people who don't have access to have these machined for roughly $250 a set

Your feedback is welcomed!

Regards

Cameron

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452152-open-source-rb-trigger-kit/
Share on other sites

I would be very keen for a setup to suit rb25 neo,.. What else would be required? Just the Hall effects sensors?

I am trying to understand the advantage of this. Would I be correct in saying the rb engines do not have a crank sensor and rely on cam sensor to determine crank position? If this is correct then why do additional cam sensors also need to be installed?

Running the timing off the CAS can be a very inaccurate way of controling your timing.

CAS runs off the exhaust camshaft, which is driven by the timing belt, the belt can stretch, slap and so on making the timing move around.

Best way to run it is straight off the crank, bypassing the inaccuracy or the timing belt and the issues it causes to timing fluctuation.

Ok thankyou, why does the cam sensor also need to be changed if it is already fitted with one from factory?

Just to expand on what Ben said, the original Nissan CAS is too complicated for the task of just providing the stroke reference once you've handed the task of overall engine position over to a sensor on the crank. So you bin it and its slightly flaky optical triggers, replacing with a nice single sensor.

Thanks guys for all the feedback overnight and PM's.

The reason for not going for 12 trigger points is some ECU's cannot keep up with the count, Yes I know with less if the count is lost it takes longer to regain the position however with only 6 points their is alot less chance of losing the count as the ecu can keep up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...