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R32 Gts+t Daily/street


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11 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Curious to know what others think of this, in my head this doesn't quite make sense. I'm thinking the explanation is more like the RB25 can keep the turbo spooled for a wider powerband so more power on average -> more heat to dissipate. Everything else kind of seems like a 2nd or 3rd order effect that wouldn't make a 30+C delta in oil temps.

open to other reasons. and i think both sides are true. the RB20 would keep making more power to redline and when graphed over the turbo map it was right in the middle. However, on the 25 it falls over at ~6.5k ish. but comes on sooner so.

Other points that would play a part:

 - The RB25 has a lower redline and revs up slower
 - on full boost from 3700-7250 (3550rpm range)
 - OEM rad shroud and oil cooler in free air with loose ducting


 - The RB20 had a higher redline and reved faster
 - on full boost from 4500-8250 (3750rpm range)
- no rad shroud and oil cooler between intercooler and rad

 - a few years of seat time??

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28 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

 - a few years of seat time??

^^^This, you would be amazed how much more load you put on a car when confident and experienced.
More 100% throttle in a higher gear and using the car for longer periods. Drifting also is hard on cooling systems as general not getting airflow over the front directly.

I drive a mates 350z and I use third gear (less rpm) more and I can do longer sessions where he uses second bangs off limiter and only gets say 30% less seat time before car gets hot.

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2 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

^

 Drifting also is hard on cooling systems as general not getting airflow over the front directly.
 

Drifting yeah not surprising. but 2.5 laps at mallala on a grip circuit day 25°?

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19 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

Drifting yeah not surprising. but 2.5 laps at mallala on a grip circuit day 25°?

Thats a problem, I think your plans for cooling system will sort it out. I went through similar issues with the sil80 and the ducting is what sorted it out. Try some coreflute(sign board material) to make up temporary ducting to trial it.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/tunnelcore-1200-x-900-x-3mm-black-double-wall-pp-flute-board_p0488078

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33 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Thats a problem, I think your plans for cooling system will sort it out. I went through similar issues with the sil80 and the ducting is what sorted it out. Try some coreflute(sign board material) to make up temporary ducting to trial it.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/tunnelcore-1200-x-900-x-3mm-black-double-wall-pp-flute-board_p0488078

yeah hoping to duct at least the intercooler/radiator before the next grip event if not the oil/pws coolers too.
corflute is a great idea.

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  • 4 weeks later...

New radiator and oil cooler have arrived

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obligatory comparison shot

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taking car of some small easy gaps first before I tackle some ducting. Just used some adhesive foam with a heat rating to 150C to fill this little gap air may take to bypass the radiator.

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Oil cooler comparison

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Next track day is in 1 week. Hopefully I can fit the oil cooler then get ducting and water sprayers sorted before then

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Got the fiancé onboard to make a intake heatshield. I am still skeptical how much benefit this will really give on a turbo car but i guess colder air in should be colder air out.

c4OpLlY.jpeg 

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Posted (edited)

Unfortunately the new oil cooler did not quiet clear the intercooler pipes to fit inside the drivers side guard where I intended. So it was back to in between the intercooler and the AC condenser.

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While this may not be great for adding heat it is much safer especially for drift and my affinity for sending it into tyre stacks


Mounted up the water sprayers. Because I originally intended for the oil cooler to be mounted else where I bought a single nozzle sprayer to go with it. Figured I should still use it so I mounted it between the intercooler and the oil cooler.

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Edited by CRSKmD
typo
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Next up was from CAD🙃 work for making up some ducting.

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Transferred the template to some scrap 3mm aluminum I picked up and added some pinchweld with gasket to help with  sealing.

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The same process was used to cover the other large gaps.

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Made a bracket up to hold the water sprayer tanks (5L each for 10L total). 

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The pump for the water sprayers was installed where the battery used to be, which was relocated to the left hand side.

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While I was cleaning things up I decided to remake the aircup system mount.

Before: which made more sense when i had a full boot trim and sub/amps

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After
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The boot feels and is likely more balanced now.

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35 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

Transferred the template to some scrap 3mm aluminum I picked up and added some pinchweld with gasket to help with  sealing.

fV125Ex.jpeg

Nice. I just use black corflute for these. Light, cheap, disposable if necessary.

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Just now, GTSBoy said:

Nice. I just use black corflute for these. Light, cheap, disposable if necessary.

yeah that was my plan but then the scraps of 3mm aluminum were free

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12 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

yeah that was my plan but then the scraps of 3mm aluminum were free

Half your luck. I just had to buy a piece of 4mm ally to make a flange because I couldn't find any suitable scrap in the places I spend time!

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Hard to say exactly which cooling upgrade had the most effect but the combined outcome allowed me to do 8 hot laps at Mallala back to back on a 22C day without me seeing the oil temp exceeding 106C or water 95C without the water sprayers being on.

I have not checked the data logs yet to confirm the max temps, but it was certainly a success.

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