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  • 2 weeks later...

Just as a follow up on the Starlet before we return to our usual programming. Dyno check over. Runs rich but is safe.
Makes 105.2kw/176.8Nm 141hp/130ft.lb on 11psi with the Stock ECU

 

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Oof. You're not wrong about "rich". I'm surprised not to have seen black smoke on the dyno. Less than 10 is fat enough, let alone diving below 8 at the top end!

First run had some woofs of black smoke then went away for this one I filmed. General driving i tend to see 10.2-11.5 on my gauge.

Still gets 8L/100km.

I should leave it alone and just drive it around but now i am considering a the 2 options of either FCD + RRFPR and see if a little more boost and some fiddling gets the AFRs more reasonable. Or option 2 looking out for a cheap Link ECU to wire in as standalone...

42 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

First run had some woofs of black smoke then went away for this one I filmed. General driving i tend to see 10.2-11.5 on my gauge.

Still gets 8L/100km.

I should leave it alone and just drive it around but now i am considering a the 2 options of either FCD + RRFPR and see if a little more boost and some fiddling gets the AFRs more reasonable. Or option 2 looking out for a cheap Link ECU to wire in as standalone...

Put a link in.

I'd make the argument that "Just a daily" is what needs the real engine management and real tune for it's driving around casual needs.

You can cut corners when you DGAF for dailying or road use on a car.

yeah i think i accept that something to address the AFRs are on the list for sure.

Interesting how much different(richer) the dyno wideband (exhaust tip) reads than my one reads (pre cat).

10 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

Interesting how much different(richer) the dyno wideband (exhaust tip) reads than my one reads (pre cat).

I just went through this on the dyno.  - Only to realise most people consider the one in the sniffer on the dyno to run artificially/fake leaner by about half a point.

We trusted the dyno readout. Dang.

Most tuners tend to prefer the one closer to the header location, but also most dyno's will trust their own gear (obviously) and that gear usually involves a sniffer at the end of the exhaust as this is used on every vehicle. 

And if it reads 'incorrectly' it reads falsely lean which is safer than too lean.

Supposedly because being (further) inside the pipe means it won't be affected as much by outside air.

Mine is mounted roughly middle of the car, just after where my exhaust merges. No science there - Just where it fit and I wanted it after the merge of a V8. Most widebands request it be 1M from the exhaust port or thereabouts as a minimum.

got bamboozled by the edited post haha


"I just went through this, on the dyno only to realise most people consider the one in the exhaust pipe to be the more accurate one. My car is now tuned 0.3 rich. :p"

9 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I just went through this, on the dyno only to realise most people consider the one in the sniffer on the dyno reads artificially leaner.

We trusted the dyno readout. Dang.

 

My wideband which is post turbo, pre-cat reads leaner. Than the dyno one in tail pipe which is backwards to above. I guess its possible the dyno one or my one is out of calibration. Though mine is pretty new still...

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