Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would not bother staying in Sydney if I were you. I'd drop the car off and go home. Then call them routinely and get updates.

Get a friend to drive with you and drive back

Doubt very much that I would be staying in Sydney.

I would not ask anyone to drive 8 hours so I can drop my car off, I just could not do that . Apart from the kids I am a bit of a loner, always have been :)

Got a date for retune yet Pete?

Not yet mate, they were tied up for a couple of weeks so maybe a couple of weeks or so, I do not want to give it to them unless they can start on it immediately, well hopefully, well maybe, well it could happen , haha

Sorry if its been covered earlier but is this the initial run in tune on a new motor? If so your tuner isn't going to push the tune hard straight up normally its very conservative in regards to timing ect. Just a few degrees extra will make a big gains in output.

Sorry if its been covered earlier but is this the initial run in tune on a new motor? If so your tuner isn't going to push the tune hard straight up normally its very conservative in regards to timing ect. Just a few degrees extra will make a big gains in output.

Hi Ryan, not sure what graph you saw, this is the final tune

Have to take the car back in a week or so, there are a few ongoing problems to sort out and after that I have to think seriously about what I will do.

I think if I really want the car to run as it could with the build I need to dig into the pocket again :(

I might get the Dump and Cat changed and fuel situation sorted so it can handle it if I turn it up a bit. The exhaust is getting back pressure and the fuel is close to the max, so I an thinking of getting another Walbro 460 and running both into a surge tank, new lines and twin fuel rail. If I decide to do these mods, then I will then get the flex fuel tune done. I did not think it was worth doing the Flex Tune the way it is, it would struggle to take advantage of E85

Also thinking about getting CAI box done, the END :) AGAIN :)

post-52098-0-74784600-1431208908_thumb.gif

I think he means twin entry rail.

You can get a good rail for $150 that will suit ID 1000/2000s

The real cost is in the lines and fittings,

You also don't need a massive fuel pump feeding the surge tank, as thats where fuel is returned too

and you definably don't need 2 feeding it.

I have a nismo lift pump and 2x walbro 400s in the surge tank feeding the rail

Even that is over kill in some people's opinion

I think he means twin entry rail.

You can get a good rail for $150 that will suit ID 1000/2000s

The real cost is in the lines and fittings,

You also don't need a massive fuel pump feeding the surge tank, as thats where fuel is returned too

and you definably don't need 2 feeding it.

I have a nismo lift pump and 2x walbro 400s in the surge tank feeding the rail

Even that is over kill in some people's opinion

Hi Joe

I will have to ask some more about all of this and there is plenty of time to work it out..

Yes, I think twin entry rail, I do not know the difference, I need to ask more questions and then have to look it all up :/

If I do this work naturally it will all be done before re tuning the the car for 98 and E85.

I have a near new Bosch 044, can that be used as a lift pump to the 460 Walbro in the tank to feed the rail. Are you saying that the standard fuel line is adequate on this build ??

I see blokes doing all sorts of mods on the fuel line and do not have the build I have, understand, I was not going to touch the car again and here I am, it is worse than f**king drugs :(

Still can't believe your running a 3 inch restriction in your exhaust. If that was on your original engine before, it could explain why it was so laggy. Hope you sort it out. Sounds as though it will be nice to drive.

They said I needed a 3.5 inch exhaust done with the previous work before the 3.2 build.. Then I checked the Dump and Cat after the build and they are 3 inch. I am going to a 4" Dump and maybe a 5" Venom Cat and see how that goes with the 3.5" back from the Cat. If there is a problem with that it will be changed.

I will go ahead with the fuel mods and the Flex Tune at some stage, I would rather overkill than pushing it . But I will wait until after it comes back from the repairs and see how it is running, maybe I will do nothing if I am happy with it???

I wouldn't bother with flex until they can completely get the 98 tune sorted . imagine the ecu scaling between 2 tunes, you're having enough problem with one tune.

Yeah Ben, it will be done before I do anything else, it will be interesting to see how it is going when it comes back

Still can't believe your running a 3 inch restriction in your exhaust. If that was on your original engine before, it could explain why it was so laggy. Hope you sort it out. Sounds as though it will be nice to drive.

The excuse was that "it was setup for a 2.6L".

Out of interest Pete, what/who made you go for the 3.2L stroker in the first place? Given the expense it seems like a curious mod path (to me) given what you wanted from the motor and given you had no prior experience with RB motors!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...