Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah i agree i just had a good dump! Feel so much lighter! :D

Great news on the car Pete i think thats the least they coulda done being the high end customer you were! Your build wasn't exactly a budget build so why they left pieces of the puzzle out like dump pipes etc before the tuning process was beyond me?!

haha, you bad :)

Probably going 4" would be better but at least it will be 3.5" all the way should eliminate a bit of the back pressure he had when tuning it. It was an offer I could not refuse and I appreciated it :thumbsup:

Looking alot better.

Yeah exhaust is key - gotta get rid of the hot gas somehow.

I was going to go with the 4" dump and cat, but could not knock this offer back.

I did not mind having the 3.5" exhaust system back from the Cat as it was built to flow and once the gases got to the exhaust it would be cooling a little.

Soon find out how the 3.5" goes, maybe a week before it's done ?

You'll be fine with 3.5 all the way.

Will be excellent.

Thanks, do you really think that 1/2 an inch will make that much difference, there is a step down from the turbo to the dump and a step up from the cat to the exhaust. I guess it would have to be restrictive.

I have heard said that an 1" makes all the difference but never knew what they were talking about :)

Some rough calcs

Area of a 3 inch is 28.2 in 2

Area of a 3.5 inch is 38.4 in 2

Area of a 4 inch is 50.2 in 2

From 3 to 3.5 is 36% larger.

when it is put that way it is pretty impressive ?

what does 38.4 in "2" mean

Yeah i agree i just had a good dump! Feel so much lighter! :D

Great news on the car Pete i think thats the least they coulda done being the high end customer you were! Your build wasn't exactly a budget build so why they left pieces of the puzzle out like dump pipes etc before the tuning process was beyond me?!

He only got a rebuilt bottom end and some diffs put in, would hardly call it high end.

Not to take anything away from a 3.2 stroker of course

He only got a rebuilt bottom end and some diffs put in, would hardly call it high end.

Not to take anything away from a 3.2 stroker of course

haha, a little bit more work than that, but not finished yet :)

Of course there is a lot holding this together but without nuts and bolts.

Nitto 3.2./ RB30

PT6262 CEA

9Lt sump conversion

supertech 1mm OS valves and stuff

head cleaned up

custom UE 260 10.8 cams etc

Koyorad radiator

Splitfire coils

ID 1300 injectors

Custom catch tank

Haltech ECU Platinum Pro R34GTR

Flex fuel sensor

HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller

3.5" dump,cat and custom high flow stainless exhaust ( 3.5" cat and dump now going in the car)

Nismo slave cylinder

coppermix twin C Spec

Quaife front diff

Modified Transfer case

Nismo 2-way LSD

Next to do after I get over this lot is,

CAI pod cover

Twin Walbro intank surge tank and fuel lines etc

Full Flex tune.

I know there are shit loads more you can do to your car to call it a top end build, but for a DD it is a pretty strong build that you can drive to church or get you to heaven, real quick, or HELL :/

Of course there is a lot holding this together but without nuts and bolts.

Nitto 3.2./ RB30

PT6262 CEA

9Lt sump conversion

supertech 1mm OS valves and stuff

head cleaned up

custom UE 260 10.8 cams etc

Koyorad radiator

Splitfire coils

ID 1300 injectors

Custom catch tank

Haltech ECU Platinum Pro R34GTR

Flex fuel sensor

HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller

3.5" dump,cat and custom high flow stainless exhaust ( 3.5" cat and dump now going in the car)

Nismo slave cylinder

coppermix twin C Spec

Quaife front diff

Modified Transfer case

Nismo 2-way LSD

Next to do after I get over this lot is,

CAI pod cover

Twin Walbro intank surge tank and fuel lines etc

Full Flex tune.

I know there are shit loads more you can do to your car to call it a top end build, but for a DD it is a pretty strong build that you can drive to church or get you to heaven, real quick, or HELL :/

I thought the turbo setup and fuel system was already on it for some reason!

I thought the turbo setup and fuel system was already on it for some reason!

The Turbo was on. Left a lot of boltons on the car and have been upgrading them as needed.

I had no idea when I started this I would go to this stage :ban:

They told me the fuel delivery was starting to be a problem, especially if I go for E85 and wanted to turn the wick up. Then, the surge tank would be a good idea. I am sick of worrying once I get down to 1/4 tank if I am playing.

Going to end up with a jumble sale of parts soon and all of them are near new :)

I would say a surge tank is a necessity even on a tuned 26 with good rubber. All it takes is one fuel starvation event and your engine is gone. Not worth the risk to be honest.

That will be getting done very soon, just have to get this sorted , then get the parts and book it in :)

Rubber is pretty good, 265/35 x 18 AD08Rs , they really grip!

He only got a rebuilt bottom end and some diffs put in, would hardly call it high end.

Not to take anything away from a 3.2 stroker of course

LOL @ this guy! Are you serious mate? I don't know what Petes bill was BUT it'd have to be starting at $30K+ im pretty sure thats enough to be classed as a high end customer!

Sure there is blokes/GTRKAT that throw bucket loads more money at those blokes than Pete did does that mean he deserved a car that wasn't setup right from the beginning does it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...