Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No all good :)

Have Daddy stuff to do so I will give a full rundown in the morning. I also have to check the water when it is cold to get a better idea if it is OK

Lost about 6KW but going stronger and seems a little more responsive :)

You blokes are really funny, I love it :cheers:

  • Like 1

Well just checked the water and it is still warm but it seems OK, will wait until tomorrow when it is cold before i get excited .

The 4" Dump and 100 Cell cat was installed, (have to have a look at it as I do not know the size)

The Starter motor was replaced or fixed ?

The misfiring was addressed , gave it some work on the way home and all seemed good. I will give it a more vigorous trial soon.

The water leak seems to be sorted

The cost for this work = $0

Their communication is crappy but they backed up their work, well, in my experience.

I have no idea why there was a 6KW lose of power but it does not feel like it to drive, only took it to 7000rpm and loved it :)

Having trouble getting the dyno off the phone, try tomorrow, fn laptop hic hic

Be back in a few weeks as I think I will make a couple of changes, surge tank , fuel line and CAI pod cover and have the flex tune , but somewhere closer to home :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :action-smiley-069:

 

sky30, on 26 Jun 2015 - 10:57 PM, said:

Nice to hear its all good now peter.

What turbo and what power at what boost ?

PT6262 CEA

 

Finally got a photo out of the phone

 

Luke , I do have a new set of AD08Rs on now, the old tyes had plenty of rubber but old due to the car sitting in a garage for 5 years they said they were 10 years old and to scrap them.

 

The car seems to drive the same up to about 3000rpm but stronger after that

 

Just checked the water and looking GOOOOOD :yes:

 

I will give it a bit of work over the weekend just to be sure.

 

Looks like I will have to put the surge tank in the boot but I use the car for trips I do not like the idea of taking up the space, is there any other way of doing this

post-52098-0-87546400-1435352661_thumb.jpg

^^^Mounting under the car means you don't need a lift pump.

380kw is plenty for the street. It will go very fast and so long as it revs out smoothly you will be very happy. ( I wish shops would produce dyno charts with revs instead of mph!)

I am intrigued by the way that the boost curve trends down. I thought it would hold at least 25 psi for quite a bit longer. Maybe that';s just how the turbo is or maybe its the wastegate or just the tuner.

Like the rest of your non- paying audience I am glued to this thread!

  • Like 1

As piggaz mentioned underneath but in the 34 there's a spot in front where the spare wheel acher is.That's where I'm putting mine as I didn't want the smell of fuel for the back seat riders.

Edited by QUP29

As piggaz mentioned underneath but in the 34 there's a spot in front where the spare wheel acher is.That's where I'm putting mine as I didn't want the smell of fuel for the back seat riders.

If you have a fuel smell you have a problem.
  • Like 1

Nice PR for UE there Paul, get a $ out of it :)

Thanks for all of the ideas for the surge tank location, gives me some ..

If it is installed properly in the boot you should not get fuel smell in the car, right. I was just worried about having travel gear bumping around with the fuel setup :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops. I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?
    • This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc.    The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).  
    • Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
×
×
  • Create New...