Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So if I go by that graph the 3.2L has 300KW at the same RPM as my 2.6 (pretty close).

How is that even possible? I guess if it had a torque graph (why?) then it would have a massive increase.

But it is stopping at 7000rpm. Please tell me I am reading it wrong.

Edited by Stixbnr32

Turbo is too small. Turbine housing too small which restricts flow and chokes the engine. In this scenario you have no choice but to cut boost.

It will be interesting to see what an e85 tune does because if it makes no significant difference then the turbo selection is the problem.

Why would boost need to be cut?

I have a .82 housing on mine and boost holds flat to 8000rpm

Edited by sky30

Yeah the graph is slightly strange isnt it.

Well as long as it feels good I guess it is ok. I still think 7000rpm is low but if the turbo cannot flow it no point revving anymore.

At least its not spluttering and leaking water.

That is a success.

I would have thought boost would have carried on the whole way through and if there were lean patches from fuel/spark they would have suggested a fix with the amount of money spent on the engine.

Have they had their top tuner leave recently or something?

The limiter is set at 8000rpm. On the first tune @ 8500rpm .

The PT6262 CEA is rated over 700HP, some blokes say they get more, why would it stop at 600HP ?

When the Turbo was put on he changed to a larger back housing , size ?

So the Turbo should be good for at least 700HP ?

Could it be the spark ?

Put it this way my turbos are rated at 650hp and I am not pushing them with the same power you have and my boost is 22psi.

What size are your injectors? They can tell straight away if it is running lean and pull boost. Only reason I can think of to pull it.

But they should tell you and then recommend a fix. No point even going near E85. Go from 24psi to 18????

The injectors are ID1300

It is definitely not as rich as it was, but still a little soot comes out on start, pretty normal but nothing like it was since the build , it was heavy.

Going to have a AF sensor installed. The Haltech R34 Pro has , Wideband “auto tuning” using user definable target AFR table. Not sure if that is the same function as a sensor ,but the next builder will know

I think the boost could have been pulled because it was still farting when the boost remained higher. Just an uneducated guess ?

The car will be checked and sorted out before or during the next tune , I am not going back to Sydney to do it. Looking for a shop closer to finalize the work I want done.

Until then I will just drive it and have some fun :)

Yeah just drive it :)

Fair enough on the travel factor. I am not sure about that tune.

But I am sure the engine is super strong and you will have a lump of torque down low.

I still have all the response in the world when my RPM is high :) hahah.

The limiter is set at 8000rpm. On the first tune @ 8500rpm .

The PT6262 CEA is rated over 700HP, some blokes say they get more, why would it stop at 600HP ?

When the Turbo was put on he changed to a larger back housing , size ?

So the Turbo should be good for at least 700HP ?

Could it be the spark ?

If the engine flows too much air for the turbo, it will choke, limiting achievable power and rpm levels required.

Same way as a 2.5-3" exhaust is fine for a stock motor, but not one with a bigger turbo/motor.

PJ has got the rated number and more out of a few PTE turbos, 2l, 4cylinder, 40+psi.

Anyone care to work out the equivalent flow of a 3.2l, 6 cylinder at half the boost?

If the engine flows too much air for the turbo, it will choke, limiting achievable power and rpm levels required.

Same way as a 2.5-3" exhaust is fine for a stock motor, but not one with a bigger turbo/motor.

PJ has got the rated number and more out of a few PTE turbos, 2l, 4cylinder, 40+psi.

Anyone care to work out the equivalent flow of a 3.2l, 6 cylinder at half the boost?

That's good and fine to work it all out on compressor maps, but on a 3.2 you have a shit load more volume through the turbine. if the the rear AR is too small then you get back pressure prior to the turbine which not only slows down gas velocity but creates all sorts of issues with cylinder pressure and combustion events. That's why you have to cut boost.

In a 4 cylinder you can run big boost because you haven't got the volume of gas, so exhaust gas speed dosen't suffer and you can run a lot more boost (compessor) through the same turbo because the exhaust gas volume is a lot less, so no back pressure issues therefore high gas speed through the turbine.

In Pete's senario he wants response so who cares about top end power, its really all over by 7000rpm ish and that's where he wants it.

Good turbo for response from lower rpm, crap turbo from 5500ish rpm and up.

Edited by XGTRX

That's good and fine to work it all out on compressor maps, but on a 3.2 you have a shit load more volume through the turbine. if the the rear AR is too small then you get back pressure prior to the turbine which not only slows down gas velocity but creates all sorts of issue with cylinder pressure and combustion events. That's why you have to cut boost.

In a 4 cylinder you can run big boost because you haven't got the volume of gas, so exhaust gas speed dosen't suffer and you can run a lot more boost (compessor) through the same turbo because the exhaust gas volume is a lot less, so no back pressure issues therefore high gas speed through the turbine.

In Pete's senario he wants response so who cares about top end power, its really all over by 7000rpm ish and that's where he wants it.

Good turbo for response from lower rpm, crap turbo from 5500ish rpm and up.

I agree, which is why I can't work out why people still want/expect it to be making 700hp
  • Like 1

have to see it through pete!!

I just got to know..

I do not know how to stop, haha

I will do the mods to finish the build off, I do not like taking a chance with the work that has been done. Do the surge tank and pod cover, plus a AF sensor if needed. The idea of making sure I have 1/2 or 1/4 tank before playing would drive me nuts.

I was thinking of trying a bloke in Port Macquarie but do not know anything about the shop.

Everything will be checked out, I have spoken to a shop in Gosford about the work and the tune. He seems to have a good reputation and I can get there and back easily, saves time and money :)

6262 is rated at 730hp, if there are no restrictions on the motor it should acheive close to that figure.

Peter, what wastegate and boost controller you got?

HKS, EVC 6 boost controller

Showed Paul some pics and he said it is looks like the old HKS wastegate ?

Everything will be checked out, I have spoken to a shop in Gosford about the work and the tune. He seems to have a good reputation and I can get there and back easily, saves time and money :)

Whats wrong with the tune? I thought it was all sorted

Edited by XGTRX

That is alot of boost drop. Either they didn't tune in the controller properly or they are pulling boost for a reason.

Either is likely in this case I suspect.

Covering up an ignition issue, or lazy. Take your pick.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...