Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have time i would source a kit from the UK. Its the only place that seems to make the heater hoses for gtst (in silicone hose) think i ordered these from boost junkie or something along those lines

The rest of my hoses are JJR im fairly certain. Its silicone hose, works fine

Oem doesn't leak tho, which if you're happy to have to retighten all the clamps every so often to fix the leaks then yes it worth saving the $350, I am a do it once kind of person

This is from personal experience on my own car

  • Like 1

But Cal don't you have a 25, not a 26.

Under the plenum on a 26 is horrendous and you don't want to have to go back to re-tighten anything. (not that you could anyway)

Apart from the coolant hoses, there's the vacuum ones as well.

Stole this pic of a silicone hose install and below that mess are the water/oil cooler hoses.

I bought the Autobahn88 silicone hose set, fitted the easy one across the front of the cam belt and it pushed straight off, diameter just not right.

So that set went in the shed until I can afford OEM.

$350 sounds crazy cheap for OEM though???

post-73571-0-61586300-1429429405_thumb.jpg

But Cal don't you have a 25, not a 26.

Under the plenum on a 26 is horrendous and you don't want to have to go back to re-tighten anything. (not that you could anyway)

Apart from the coolant hoses, there's the vacuum ones as well.

Stole this pic of a silicone hose install and below that mess are the water/oil cooler hoses.

I bought the Autobahn88 silicone hose set, fitted the easy one across the front of the cam belt and it pushed straight off, diameter just not right.

So that set went in the shed until I can afford OEM.

$350 sounds crazy cheap for OEM though???

Ahha i knew there were more hoses but didnt quite realise there were that many more haha. I thought mine was bad even with 1/3 of them deleted.

Lets put it this way. If you buy shit quality hose you'll be doing it again once they split or fall off, lol.

I presume the JJR is okay but the best would be OEM. If you calculate the efforts spent on removing the plenum again to do the job again if the kit fails you'll see why it's worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...