Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jeez. Just kiss already.

Doesnt matter which way you put it, a equal length front pipe is the best sounding RB26. But if you go single then it sounds mental on its own.

Some say a equal length is beneficial to allow the gasses to flow evenly out to the tailpipe and inturn helps with shuffling. I can definitely say that a equal length front pipe helps with shuffling. My midori front pipe shuffled like a fair bit up inclines. But with the mines front pipe I do not experience the same level of shuffling.

But biggest point here is sound.

The end.

That is not the purpose of this topic and if you go and google I am sure you will find many more theories on the differences.

They hug the body VERY well. I've never bumped them on the ground. They generally won't do an exhaust unless they have THE car they're going on... So they can get the fit spot on. Not sure if that's changed but that was the story a few years ago.

  • Like 1

They hug the body VERY well. I've never bumped them on the ground. They generally won't do an exhaust unless they have THE car they're going on... So they can get the fit spot on. Not sure if that's changed but that was the story a few years ago.

thanks Piggaz they said they could send me one I just wanted to see if anyone in sydney could make one just as good if not better so I can make sure it fits snug

The unequal length twin 3 inch system on the 33 gtr I have here sounds awesome, if only the 3L bottom end didn't make it sound like a VL.

You seriously think a few extra inches in a front pipe will make it sound any different?

The unequal length twin 3 inch system on the 33 gtr I have here sounds awesome, if only the 3L bottom end didn't make it sound like a VL.

You seriously think a few extra inches in a front pipe will make it sound any different?

Yes,

http://youtu.be/6dSrNZK6ogc

  • Like 1

The unequal length twin 3 inch system on the 33 gtr I have here sounds awesome, if only the 3L bottom end didn't make it sound like a VL.

You seriously think a few extra inches in a front pipe will make it sound any different?

for an extra couple of bucks, can't hurt?

The unequal length twin 3 inch system on the 33 gtr I have here sounds awesome, if only the 3L bottom end didn't make it sound like a VL.

You seriously think a few extra inches in a front pipe will make it sound any different?

You made them?

  • Like 1

Yes,

Lol, you believe a youtube sound clip? That is obviously not just swapping the front pipes. It's the mufflers that change the note, not the pipes.

I agree, it makes little difference to the price, although there are many more bends and you will be sacrificing flow for this equal length nonsense. I like to tuck my systems up, not have them hanging down lower. Each to their own I guess.

You made them?

This was Daz's car, he already had a twin 3 inch system, I am just making it work with the taller block.

I have done a few twin 3 into 4 inch systems, usually tapering back to 3.5 at the mid muffler.

My car came with the usual unequal length front pipe. I changed it to an equal length one (no other changes to the car) and the sound changed (used to sound like my old neighbour's 6cyl BMW, now sounds like a "real GT-R" :P).

  • Like 1

If some of you gtr owners are that purist, perhaps the stock exhaust is the go? I am sure Nissan will still have a few in storage.

The unequal length sidepipes on the Gibson GTR I worked on had a beautiful note at 8000 revs. :P

  • Like 1

Fact is, unequal vs. equal length front pipes produce different sound. I know I heard it on my car. Doesn't mean it sounds any less meaner, just different.

Here's another youtube vid.

Performance wise? probably no difference. Practical wise, unequal is better, my equal length hangs pretty low (lowest part of the car) and has copped some dents.

Lol, you believe a youtube sound clip? That is obviously not just swapping the front pipes. It's the mufflers that change the note, not the pipes.

I agree, it makes little difference to the price, although there are many more bends and you will be sacrificing flow for this equal length nonsense. I like to tuck my systems up, not have them hanging down lower. Each to their own I guess.

This was Daz's car, he already had a twin 3 inch system, I am just making it work with the taller block.

I have done a few twin 3 into 4 inch systems, usually tapering back to 3.5 at the mid muffler.

I am terribly sorry that I used evidence to give you an example. Or maybe the fact that I also changed front pipes to equal length ones and the note changed of the exhaust. Oh and didn't touch the timing nor manifolds. Now you are calling me simple minded? Give me some credit at least.

But I don't know why we are arguing. You are clearly wrong and now it seems you are just hell bent on being right.

That is not the topic of discussion here.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...