Jump to content
SAU Community

Equal Length Front Pipe Made In Sydney?


Recommended Posts

That front pipe only cost you $800? What.

Has anyone purchased a full system from RPM recently. A 3" into 4" front and 3.5" catback or similar, not a twin system though.

Looking at getting one but don't like how everyone has had to modify their front pipe for the 33 to fit, slightly off putting.

Feel free to PM me if you don't want to post a price in the comments.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How have you determined that?

Because it's how they do it. I inquired about doing a twin 3 into single 4 inch before I found the twin RP 3 inch and to have that merge section in stainless instead of mild steel, was extra.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know if it's a great idea, mild and stainless have different expansion rates,it will likely crack eventually. Anyway, it's a GTR, it will just sit in the garage most of the time so it should be fine. :P

Some of the best sounding exhausts I have heard are stainless, but perhaps I never realised rust can improve the exhaust note...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know if it's a great idea, mild and stainless have different expansion rates,it will likely crack eventually. Anyway, it's a GTR, it will just sit in the garage most of the time so it should be fine. :P

Some of the best sounding exhausts I have heard are stainless, but perhaps I never realised rust can improve the exhaust note...

well rust can improve the sound you should get some you might learn something :) Edited by mr skidz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...