Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You are correct!

I just played around with it myself and it shows the same error. A workaround is to just create your own Generic and apply ignition correct (as in take timing out) when there's a GPS Speed / Drive Train speed difference.

I'll end up trying this out one day as I want traction control.

Your right foot is variable you know, it's not a switch :P

Fwiw any time I've heard of or been involved with using GPS for this kind of thing it's turned out that GPS latency is too bad even it's fast.  Remember the GPS speed is a "in hindsight" measurement, so it basically checks how long it took to cover ground and works out the average speed required to take that long... Which means you'll be going faster than what you've got from the GPS setup.   The results I've seen are as you'd expect, basically it cuts the wrong amount and too late - could argue that the tuning could be tweaked for it but you are actually trying to make decisions based off things which have already happened which is going to be flawed.

With 4wds I think accelerometers or predefined torque profiles for the situation are the less problematic way to go about things like this depending on how precise you want to be.  

On 07/05/2023 at 11:37 AM, SiR_RB said:

Motec

Yep, and wheel speed sensors. This can be made simpler if you are running out of inputs (4xdig inputs required) by running the Bosch Motorsport ABS which will transmit your wheel speeds over CAN. The bad news is you need to convert the rear ABS sensors to work on the hub end of the driveshaft because it's quite fussy about drive shaft wind up. That and the cost of course.....

I'm not familiar with Haltech but from what I've heard they also do a version of torque management which is similar and simpler to setup than the M150 Pro package. Seems to work in drag cars ok.

Edited by Komdotkom
  • Like 1

Wiring, such a joyous part of every build!  She must be getting pretty close now?  It’s at this point I generally decide it’s time to add something else and completely undo everything I’ve done to get to this point…..

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Wiring, such a joyous part of every build!  She must be getting pretty close now?  It’s at this point I generally decide it’s time to add something else and completely undo everything I’ve done to get to this point…..

That was what I did to get back to this point lol. I think I’ve added everything I can add and now it’s just full steam a head 

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

That was what I did to get back to this point lol. I think I’ve added everything I can add and now it’s just full steam a head 

Oh you'll find something to put it back another month or two!!

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Started getting the wiring inside the car routed and connected and also putting the interior back together. 
 

IMG_8968.thumb.jpeg.82a621d8d31b8496b604188e6ce636fb.jpeg
I decided to fit a key pad to control things like boost level, rolling anti lag and launch control on/off, there will probably be other things I’ll find for the other buttons 

IMG_8969.thumb.jpeg.ed3b255ed504a5cda11762f14a1a341d.jpeg

the interior is now looking more complete then it has in a long time and the gear position, strain gauge and eboost2 now work, I also connected the reverse lights through the pdm and they work when required. The pdm and ecu are both mounted and the can cables are connected back to the ecu 

  • Like 6
  • 3 weeks later...

After spending 3 weeks in Japan I finally came home and got to play with the gtr again, today I wired the 3 pedals to the ecu, wired the power steering pump and set up the over ride button. Also put all the carpet back in place. Finally ready to start putting seats and etc back in 

 

 

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

After spending 3 weeks in Japan I finally came home and got to play with the gtr again, today I wired the 3 pedals to the ecu, wired the power steering pump and set up the over ride button. Also put all the carpet back in place. Finally ready to start putting seats and etc back in 

 

IMG_9661.mov 15.44 MB · 1 download  

 

Fancy!

Japan would have been amazing!  I presume you got to do some car stuff?

  • Like 1
18 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Fancy!

Japan would have been amazing!  I presume you got to do some car stuff?

Japan was awesome, such a beautiful country. I went to the Nissan heritage collection. I rented an sti and drove the skyline road in hakone with it which was a lot of fun. Did the usual up garage visit and nismo omori visit as well. Apart from that it was a lot of site seeing and taking in the history of japan 

  • Like 5
10 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Japan was awesome, such a beautiful country. I went to the Nissan heritage collection. I rented an sti and drove the skyline road in hakone with it which was a lot of fun. Did the usual up garage visit and nismo omori visit as well. Apart from that it was a lot of site seeing and taking in the history of japan 

Sounds amazing!  I need to pull my finger out and get there before I get too old and cranky to be effed doing anything!  Just need to convince the wife it won't be ALL car related stuff....  Or go without her of course!

Now, get back to work, you've got a GT-R to finish off and inspire the rest of us (ie me!).

  • Haha 1

IMG_9663.thumb.jpeg.17e189b81a16b5e4e3e9fe7c80dabca8.jpeg

more genuine parts, these hold the base of the rear seat in and due to the seat having come out so many times the old one were pretty ordinary. 
 

IMG_9664.thumb.jpeg.462bbd895d8f2e301a941bb678db1c79.jpeg

and the rear seat is in and it’s really starting to look like a car again 

Due to the fact I’m still running the original dash I thought better add something that quickly tells me the information the ecu has available 

IMG_9673.thumb.jpeg.dd31a4c5d8613fa32d6d0dae2a9dda4e.jpegIMG_9672.thumb.jpeg.0825cf20482d2a4b2d7c184610a100a3.jpeg

I replaced the boost gauge with a haltech can gauge and found a pod that fits it. The readings are all over the place at the moment because the engine bay wiring still isn’t done 

 

  • Like 3

The Haltech CAN gauges are nice, I contemplated installing one when I was running the 3 x centre console gauges. 
but the motec dash kind of eliminates the need for them.
looking good, it’s a good feeling when it’s going back together  

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

The Haltech CAN gauges are nice, I contemplated installing one when I was running the 3 x centre console gauges. 
but the motec dash kind of eliminates the need for them.
looking good, it’s a good feeling when it’s going back together  

I love your dash and if I could convince the mrs to let me spend the money I’d have one without a second thought 

24 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I love your dash and if I could convince the mrs to let me spend the money I’d have one without a second thought 

Billet blocks, sequential boxes and god knows whatever else, a dash is Fark all 🤣

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...