Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also, I'd take 20 year old nissan manufacturing over most builds any day... Al has had to have his built 3 times now aswell, as has Dean.

Yes, this is the power of a decade of hindsight and knowledge of what happens to others, a much larger sample size than 1. In theory, a proper rebuild should be fine.

There's also the argument of how long or what better durability you actually get from a rebuilt 350RWKW engine. I don't think any amount of forged parts or expert assembly can get you 300,000kms at 350RWKW, it doesn't seem like that would be a reasonable expectation anyway.

Or what would happen if you got a forged build and then only drove it like a regular road car, then saw how it looked/lasted 300,000kms. There's not really enough data for it.

Race cars build race engines and they make 500hp or what have you, and they last four laps on a track every now and then. Whats that, 15kms per rebuild? Expecting a 2.5L to make 200,000 track kms just because FORGED is a bit much.

Still would be nice to last more than 500kms of street driving. ;)

Mine still going well 45,000km at a half decent power level daily, just do my oil every 10,000 and clean air filter

tl;dr get a v8 m8

straya

Edited by UNR33L

Mine still going well 45,000km at a half decent power level daily, just do my oil every 10,000 and clean air filter

tl;dr get a v8 m8

A pretty valid point actually. There is a lot of merit putting a LS1-3-flavour into a RB, S13, whatever if your goal is 270-300rwkw.

Response, Sound aside (both benefits for a V8) there's merit in it being legal, EPA wise and the main factor of it working near 100% of factory/designed power, vs trying to run something at 200% of factory power.

v8 m8 is gr8

?

are you trying to say it's legal?

It's entirely legal to V8 into things, if you do it correctly, which can be done.

I know people who have engineered RB25's into things as well, but if your aim is hiflow RB25 territory for power, why not V8?

There really isn't any reason not to.

It's entirely legal to V8 into things, if you do it correctly, which can be done.

I know people who have engineered RB25's into things as well, but if your aim is hiflow RB25 territory for power, why not V8?

There really isn't any reason not to.

cost of getting a 5.7l motor engineered into a factory 2.5 = not worth it

Did you say this 8 years ago?

The only reason I've persisted is because I got the Stroker kit for near nothing and had a free rebuild coming my way via someone who had a really, really great reputation 8 years ago. Someone who was recommended directly by someone else who owns a certain hub dyno, at the time.

I did initially put a stock neo in, it just got exploded before I took delivery of it, my options were

1) Free replacement neo, which could have the same problem.. or..

2) Near-nothing RB28 upgrade which would have 0kms on it, which you'd think logically would be better option long term.

Again, this was 2007. We all have 8 years of experience since then to see what works longer term and what doesn't seem to. I would still say, that if the engine was implemented correctly that option 2) should still be the better option to go down.

Even if you still only want 320rwkw, it's a better option to have a new engine over an old engine, assuming they are assembled to the same standard, which you would think would happen in most/all professional scenarios.

You'd think.

And you were trying to convince me to go a neo

Well I think this is your problem Greg

Also you don't know when to call it a day on something, like I admire the persistence, but sometimes for your own sanity and wallet you gotta move on cause no amount of solution or success will make up for the journey you've had to take and continue to take to get there

Shit is sucking you in like a succubus

I advise all people out there to simply go to where a hiflow will get you on a RB25 (i.e 320ish) because its the point of which everything else breaks or becomes very visible to Mr Plod.[/img]

People take your advice on modifying cars?

Everyone bagging RE, meanwhile my old engine is still going strong

cost of getting a 5.7l motor engineered into a factory 2.5 = not worth it

I agree, but every now and then you see them pop up/appear with something already in it. Someone was selling a S13 with a LS2 in it for 6k before, with the gearbox and engine mounted. Someone with some know-how could easily pick that up and get it finished and enjoy it for quite a long time. I would rather a LS1-LS3 than say, a RB25 into a 180sx was my point to be made.

Big difference than say... putting a LS1 into a Supra because "its better to run an engine at 100% than 200%"..

And you were trying to convince me to go a neo

Well I think this is your problem Greg

Also you don't know when to call it a day on something, like I admire the persistence, but sometimes for your own sanity and wallet you gotta move on cause no amount of solution or success will make up for the journey you've had to take and continue to take to get there

Shit is sucking you in like a succubus

I wasn't suggesting the neo for you, I was thinking about it for me. :P

There is no reason to call it a day on something, because there is no actual demon involved.

If I gave it up and started again, I would want/get something very similar to what I actually have.

If you sold your GTST and started again (Ignoring the GTR) you would get... another GTST. With the same mods, with the same problems and things to consider. I'm not actually trying to push the envelope or do anything too unusual. I just want what is relatively standard to actually work correctly.

I would never recommend anyone put a neo into a 33 because the benefits don't really make a lot of sense given how hard it is, for some very minor benefits if any at all.

People take your advice on modifying cars?

Everyone bagging RE, meanwhile my old engine is still going strong

son of rajab knows I know what not to do, and what to look out for by now :P

RE had a good reputation for a reason, for awhile.

new worst thread on SAU: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460737-z-tune-inspired-r34-project/

R34 GTR with 15 pages in 2 weeks of endless questions and indecisiveness.

made worse with the countless threads with the OP asking about purchasing a R34GTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...