Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put some AD08s on it and come back and say that..

Lol I know I know, wasn't srs

srs doe cant get ad08s in 19s

Had nittos and they were mad, will get some good ones soon got some big brembos in the house ready to go on too

Once I intercool it might actually take it to the (circuit) track for some fun

Edited by UNR33L

yeah changed massively over past 3 years.

I struggle to get performance tyres in 17" now 255 17 is a raity, when I was seriously tracking they were the most common..

it all 18+ now with all performance cars running 18-20's

going to change wheels to 18's soon so rubber cheaper.

Made over 850nm torque on that dyno throughout the whole rev range basically.. not sure exactly what that means on a dyno but yeh.

it means you don't know the difference between torque and tractive effort

Inb4 worse off the line traction with AD08Rs. Mine always needed a bit of heat in them to get going.

Borcis experience - (Leroys experience + (Greg's experience * g)) = X

Calculate for X

g = Greg's coefficient [(Damage done * price in AUD)/time spent off the road ^2.8]

Inb4 worse off the line traction with AD08Rs. Mine always needed a bit of heat in them to get going.

Borcis experience - (Leroys experience + (Greg's experience * g)) = X

Calculate for X

g = Greg's coefficient [(Damage done * price in AUD)/time spent off the road ^2.8]

Really bruh? I could launch them at 6k no problem even early in the morning

I spun out all over the place on NT05's... at like 30kmh off throttle. Was great.

I won't bother with trying to do another run at Heathcote with AD08's (never mind the fact the car never managed a pass last time lol) due to their horrific grip on the strip.

I found them to grip much better on a normal road though.

Also, there was a FG Typhoon the first time I went to Heathcote, making 420rwkw, had some suitable tyres, being MT ET Streets and was running mid 10's every run, so I'd wager "needs 500rwkw to feel quick" probs not quite so much, depending on what your definition of 'quick' is

The problem with Leigh's car is its linear power delivery and you can blame the supercharger for it. One of Barry's customers has a blown GTS and it's the same deal, quick car but doesn't feel fast once you've sat through a couple of 0-100s. Speedo goes up very quick but the seat of the pants doesn't replicate. They really do need a lot of power to feel fast everywhere. Leigh's car only gets scary when you're above 150 and it's still climbing very quickly, on cheap shit tyres...

To be fair, all scary cars are only scary when scary.

I was in a 400KW -5's R33 GTR recently and it felt very non scary, mainly due to the fact it really didn't give a shit about losing grip at any point. Stability is both good and bad in that aspect, I'd wager bigger, heavier cars like the GTS, or Leigh's car would do much the same. I've been told my boaty sedan feels a little that way too, but not in the same ballpark of a GTR or larger cars.

Probably saying that is why a MX5 is fun at about 4kmh

Birds my way to get that turbo rush of power out of nowhere is to get dat dere foot turbo lag makes you realize that it pulls, either that or sit 4000rpm then stomp the throttle for that instant throwback.

That awkward moment when a walkinshaw gts goes you off the line when you've just started driving and tyres are rock icey cold, skated all the way up Blackburn road near Monash playing catch-up. Then on roll he bitched out when I was aware

Edited by UNR33L

RE002's had much better cold grip than AD08R for me. Maybe sidewalls too stiff.

When on the limit pulsar is scary. Mainly for grip/stability reasons. But handles well in corners.

Soon to be booked in for shit loads of fab work. Then on the home straight... Sort of.

Working in fuel and intake at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...