Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah, it came across that way for sure, but it was a reference to the logical progression to business bank manager from my current role

I'm not moving at the moment as the work life balance is off the chain and it works well with my youngest

my car is working

its time to start making massive changes

This is the same car that always fails, that the other day you advised has been running daily for 6 months, that is now running again?

you are a confusing guy Greg

The same? The only oddity I've ever noticed is that from switching between E85 and 98 it seems to bring up some kind of residue that likes to clog my fuel filter (which is removable and cleanable).

To be honest though, having 400kw at 4500RPM is kind of pointless (cause grip) so really I should be just running 98 all the time cause there's no practical loss of anything in switching between them.

Trying to tune them though you notice quick smart which is the better fuel. That alone makes me want to daily it on E85 tbh, its just a far better fuel, the car is just far, far happier to run on it. Smoother, way less charge temps on intake, etc. I'd personally want to use it when driving hard even if the power increase was 0.

As for winter start being problematic, is an E85 myth. Couple of cranks (literally 2) and good to go.

  • Like 2

I think the cold start 'myth' is more for people that don't use the car every day.. my brothers r33 on e85 was a weekender and just an absolute pig.. now its collecting rust on the side of my parents house with good advan forged rims on it.. (also probably getting rusty)

See it on the XR6's as well, half the people say its fine the other half say it's a bitch to start in the cold.. same shit, different car.

Not really worth it with my boost levels on the v8 so 98 ftw

Once I put some more cash into my falcadore should be good fun :) so over the power it has atm.. except in the wet it's a handful

YOLO, more power time

Edited by UNR33L

Very much depends where the car is stored and the temp you're starting it at

In the carpark beneath apartment complex, mine can be a bitch if it's gone down to 4 degrees overnight - talking 10-12 cranks. Haven't bothered to get the cold start tuned properly. Normal winter day after not having driven for 24 hours is about 2-3 cranks most.

Sitting at 95k Qantas frequent flyer points, almost enough to go LA return or similar :) not bad for 6 months

ANZ FF amex black + business related expenses ftw

Edited by UNR33L

Sitting at 95k Qantas frequent flyer points, almost enough to go LA return or similar :) not bad for 6 months

ANZ FF amex black + business related expenses ftw

Please don't

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...