Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Watching some handheld video of my car at sandown (which is painful to watch) I noticed some oily looking smoke down the left side of the car.. where my catch can... wasn't... really catching anything.

Funnily enough, the left rear was the culprit all day.... and this was after turning the boost down to about ~300rwkw, after almost faceplanting the LEFT barrier on the back straight getting onto the fun pedal with the wheels facing straight...

hmmm..

Potential self-oil slicking my own tyres aside, WOT under 100 kmh isn't really possible in my car though. This is more of a "too much everything for 2WD" as opposed to anything else.

I wasn't able to even go WOT comfortably until the start line at Sandown from the last corner, which I doubt most people have to deal with when they are making 300kw, so that lends a bit of suspicion on just what that oily looking smoke was doing down the left side of the car.



You make me cringe and shudder so damn often

6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Potential self-oil slicking my own tyres aside, WOT under 100 kmh isn't really possible in my car though. This is more of a "too much everything for 2WD" as opposed to anything else.

you know there are plenty of 2WD cars with more power than yours that can get traction right?

8 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

you know there are plenty of 2WD cars with more power than yours that can get traction right?

Yes? Everyone's idea of what 'traction' is varies though, and varies a lot on what they're trying to do really. I was referring to my own setup, not a 1000HP drag car on drag slicks with a solid rear axle on the drag strip.

Besides the myriad of problems Greg faces on the daily, a beginner (I assume) trying to throw a non-linear 400rwkw auto around a track is probably not a good starting point for sussing out vehicle dynamics..just assuming here!

Considering that for all of the morning my car (currently on about 265rwkw (super smooth and responsive, with a few degrees of timing pulled out across the whole rev range for track safety)) was losing traction at 140+ in coming onto boost in 4th... The issue was the track surface being covered in h2o... In the afternoon though, if you were losing traction on the straight, then you you need to do something about your car.... Because grip in the arvo was quite nice... Perhaps ease into the power until it's being put down properly (converted into forward motion)

9 hours ago, Odium said:

Considering that for all of the morning my car (currently on about 265rwkw (super smooth and responsive, with a few degrees of timing pulled out across the whole rev range for track safety)) was losing traction at 140+ in coming onto boost in 4th... The issue was the track surface being covered in h2o... In the afternoon though, if you were losing traction on the straight, then you you need to do something about your car.... Because grip in the arvo was quite nice... Perhaps ease into the power until it's being put down properly (converted into forward motion)

 

6 hours ago, Mohsen said:

Greg, don't be a bitch. FOOT. BURIED. EVERYWHERE

Kind of what I was referring to before.. it depends on your definition of "traction"
One man's "linear" is another man's "laggy" etc.

I don't think it's realistic to expect to go WOT and have 0% traction loss when you make peak power at 4000rpm, I too turned down the boost as much as possible so I was running about ~300 and had to really feed it in. I would have loved to literally go 100% throttle as soon as exiting the last corner onto the straight and hold that all the way to turn 1 but that isn't happening. At least for me. If there is something to fix I'd love to know about it!

Funnily enough, I seem to have to feed it in a lot less on the road which is also what I noticed when I went to Heathcote.

See that's what I said about Jasons before, I think he makes about 360hubwkw and gripped it fine down the straight from the last corner, really caught me by surprise that it continued to hold over that big bump out of the last turn with a bit of steering angle added. A bump seems to unsettle my rear end into traction lost usually, probably my Achilles heel.

My hunt for tyres / wheels really confirms that these business's / people have no idea how to deal with people over email / messages / interwebs its sad and annoying af.

"Give us a call to discuss options" is a popular one liner response to a comprehensive email or 'contact us' button, m8 what if I'm busy and don't want to call f*kn 10 diff places to find out what they DONT have so I email instead. Why have the contact us form in the first place.

Then there's the no reply for about a week from a popular SAU sponsor, then I get this " I'm getting smashed with pointless messages here and I'm struggling to sort through and find the real messages - if you can email, this won't get lost amongst the spam " what, email and wait another week for response - nothxjeff

/rant

 

Edited by UNR33L

Phone is still king when you want to buy stuff quickly. You could of made the call and got the answer in almost the time it took you to write the email. Not to mention your email being ignored because some lazy prick thinking your a potential time waster. I made 2 phone calls to two tyre shops, got a price I couldn't believe and secured the last available set of the tyres I wanted. Id still be waiting for the email response I reckon. Sometimes the old ways are the good ways. What size tyres are you after btw?

Kind of what I was referring to before.. it depends on your definition of "traction"
One man's "linear" is another man's "laggy" etc.
I don't think it's realistic to expect to go WOT and have 0% traction loss when you make peak power at 4000rpm, I too turned down the boost as much as possible so I was running about ~300 and had to really feed it in. I would have loved to literally go 100% throttle as soon as exiting the last corner onto the straight and hold that all the way to turn 1 but that isn't happening. At least for me. If there is something to fix I'd love to know about it!
Funnily enough, I seem to have to feed it in a lot less on the road which is also what I noticed when I went to Heathcote.


So you were running about the same power as my car which would have 0% traction loss with 8kg rears and less suspension work...
12 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Phone is still king when you want to buy stuff quickly. You could of made the call and got the answer in almost the time it took you to write the email. Not to mention your email being ignored because some lazy prick thinking your a potential time waster. I made 2 phone calls to two tyre shops, got a price I couldn't believe and secured the last available set of the tyres I wanted. Id still be waiting for the email response I reckon. Sometimes the old ways are the good ways. What size tyres are you after btw?

True, I mean I just copied pasted the emails but yeah. Finding sticky tyres in 19s with the right sized sidewalls, a lot of makes just make them big sidewalls which I don't really want (like a 245 / 40 as oppose to a 245 / 35) Invos / RS3 / NT05s / AD08s much harder to find them in the sizes I want, and if I do sometimes the prices are just stupidly high compared to the 'thick side wall' of the same tyre. Anyway seems st george are probably my best bet

Edited by UNR33L
1 minute ago, UNR33L said:

True, I mean I just copied pasted the emails but yeah. Finding sticky tyres in 19s with the right sized sidewalls, a lot of makes just make them big sidewalls which I don't really want (like a 245 / 40 as oppose to a 245 / 35) Invos / RS3 / NT05s / AD08s much harder to find them in the sizes I want, and if I do sometimes the prices are just stupidly high. Anyway seems st george are probably my best bet

Now it makes sense. Im not really familiar with 19" sizing but obviously a 245/35 isn't considered a 'common' size. St Gorge does seem very well priced for the invos in that size. I'd be buying, job done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...