Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 11/13/2016 at 9:50 PM, Birds said:
On 11/13/2016 at 6:34 PM, UNR33L said:

Pretty much, only ever see people posting up their winning tickets eh.

Anyone know the law behind renting? A friend has just moved in a week ago to a place but there's a LOT of shit that doesn't work or is problematic, stove doesn't work, oven doesnt work, toilet leaks pretty badly, taps drip, some lights don't work, TV antenna on the house doesn't work & pick up 0 channels with rabbit ears to name a few. What's the likely hood of leaving? Would they loose the whole bond and months rent paid in advance? or is there a cooling off period? I've never rented so got no idea. 

I mean I know stuff can be fixed, but shit takes time and headaches plus they're not in love with the place to begin with. 

Eh...have to give landlord opportunity to fix and they have to fix within a certain time period from when you make the complaint. If it's an emergency item (those aren't btw), you can get fixed yourself and bill the landlord for it.

I'm not sure if you can negotiate a lower rent payment until problems are fixed or get reimbursed for the inconvenience, but you legally have to pay the rent or you risk breaking the lease (the broken shit doesn't break the lease unless they never fix). Real estate agents are generally pretty good about getting problems sorted if you stay on their backs. If they don't fix then you could go to VCAT and break the lease without penalty, getting bond and any pro-rata rent paid in advance back.

 

landlord has 14 days to attend to non urgent maintenance.. also you cant just fix urgent items and bill the landlord you have to notify the agent / landlord IF no action is taken in a reasonable time frame then you can do that but be careful its a minefield as if its deemed to be excessive or a problem the tenant was responsible for they get stuck with the bill.

best bet is submit maintenance request if no action in 14 days apply to vcat they most likely wont terminate the lease but they will give the agent power to use the rent to get items attended to in order of necessity if your really lucky they might let you out

2 hours ago, alr33x said:

landlord has 14 days to attend to non urgent maintenance.. also you cant just fix urgent items and bill the landlord you have to notify the agent / landlord IF no action is taken in a reasonable time frame then you can do that but be careful its a minefield as if its deemed to be excessive or a problem the tenant was responsible for they get stuck with the bill.

best bet is submit maintenance request if no action in 14 days apply to vcat they most likely wont terminate the lease but they will give the agent power to use the rent to get items attended to in order of necessity if your really lucky they might let you out

Thanks mate, some good advice i'll pass it on. I think the place will be fine once shit is sorted, it's just a matter if they actually DO sort shit out within 14 days - time will tell. 

Some good deals on this 'click frenzy' sale thing, 40% off dell laptops, $270 xbox ones, cloths n shit, 25% off super cheap auto online shop, 40% off Bonds etc

https://www.ozbargain.com.au/pages/click-frenzy

 

Edited by UNR33L
21 hours ago, emts said:

that was my theory as well.

 

but the service just didn't work at the time.

 

12Mg is pretty slow

is the adsl 2+ or 1?

also from experience the ping times are a bit crappy so if your gaming might be an issue

 

 

yeh not the best speeds, but adsl2 can be shitty and random from my experience too (seen 2-15mbps depending on location) leeroy got like 2mbps didn't he? lol 

speed tests were over the 12/1 cap on the phone so leaning towards suggesting the wireless option.. only like 15ms ping too which is decent enough not that they'd be gaming. 

26 minutes ago, admS15 said:


Almost worth getting a cheap set of 18's for track wheels. May look slightly gay. Lol

thought about it, just not sure if fronts would clear brakes and just another added cost for a car I barely track :P 

Eh, a DECA video from the weekend I made, in car footage is kinda meh lucky I at least had the old go pro on the side for a while, not pushing the car (armco) but really enjoyed the day   

 

Edited by UNR33L
  • Like 1

Yeah some people claiming the second coming of christ on hot copper. Some "big players" have popped their head in so everyone gets excited. Triple the buy orders on commsec from the low volume last week.
They put out a research document thingy last week that went basically unnoticed.

  • Like 1
35 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Yeah some people claiming the second coming of christ on hot copper. Some "big players" have popped their head in so everyone gets excited. Triple the buy orders on commsec from the low volume last week.
They put out a research document thingy last week that went basically unnoticed.

In my long term opinion now is a great time to be in if you're looking to cash out in a few months, as no doubt IW2 and it's associated news will have you above he current prices at some point.

In my short term / daytrader opinion I'm selling out today because...sell when people buying etc.

Tidy profit from today then. Theres talk of buying more leases for land that includes more of the conventional pockets found, auctions are 9th of december or something. I have a suspicion more details of the seismic results will sprout there heads after (or maybe shortly before) the leases are sold off.
Why release all that info when its only going to drive up the price?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...