Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0

R31Nismoid

By R31Nismoid,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 18.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Birds

    3388

  • joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

    2307

  • Leroy Peterson

    2241

  • UNR33L

    1870

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

blah_blah
blah_blah

This is where the cost of a Tax accountant that knows what they are doing outweighs the costs   FYI $300/h

Mohsen
Mohsen

this has been covered many times before on this forum, please use the search function.

Mohsen
Mohsen

tokyo is so f**king cool.

Posted Images

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

Been driving to the new.job for a few months now. Gotta admit it would be f**king hard to go back to the filthy train

Ignorance is bliss

I'm still on the free early morning train..... train

  • Like 1
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, UNR33L said:

Arguments on both sides, some would say no point having a cheap daily if that's what you spend most time in, obviously if you could have a baller daily and baller weekender that's different, I'm going down that path with motorbikes though, track bike and road bike, at least they're cheaper $. 

I thought 9.5? Check out some of the Vertini, HRE, Niche etc , thewheeldeal website has some good options, I think eastcoast tyres also recently opened a shop in Bayswater (they are big in sydney for holden and ford ranger boys) 

Nah...cheap daily pros:

- Appreciate nice weekender more

- Less f**ks given if it's stolen or smashed

- Less depreciation from high mileage

- Generally better fuel economy

- No compromise made on the weekender which can have two doors and no tow bar

- Auto daily, manual weekender

All rounders compromise somewhere...in comfort or fun factor

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

tapatalk_1502087839842.jpeg

All in one. Daily and track hack. No f**ks given for fuel economy or if it gets smashed or stolen. Comfortable enough as long as there's no speed humps and fast enough at the track to leave some dedicated track cars with a wtf look. If I needed to, I'd consider a tow bar. R33 GTST, perfect weapon for that type of thing. Definitely a compromise but still works damn good.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, admS15 said:

tapatalk_1502087839842.jpeg

All in one. Daily and track hack. No f**ks given for fuel economy or if it gets smashed or stolen. Comfortable enough as long as there's no speed humps and fast enough at the track to leave some dedicated track cars with a wtf look. If I needed to, I'd consider a tow bar. R33 GTST, perfect weapon for that type of thing. Definitely a compromise but still works damn good.

This is what I'm doing now and it is one of the better cars to pick as an all rounder, but if I had the space I'd have an econobox auto daily for sure. Probably a Hyundai as their recent models are damn good value for money.

When I had a 34 GT-T auto with stock suspension, it made me appreciate the 33 manual more on weekends and vice versa.

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted
This is what I'm doing now and it is one of the better cars to pick as an all rounder, but if I had the space I'd have an econobox auto daily for sure. Probably a Hyundai as their recent models are damn good value for money.
When I had a 34 GT-T auto with stock suspension, it made me appreciate the 33 manual more on weekends and vice versa.

The 33 won't work for everyone but in my current circumstance, it's perfect. I have an m35 stagea which is as comfy as driving a sofa as a back up car/workhorse but would rather daily the 33. Why have a fast car and drive a slow car everyday. It's just not something I can do. I've never driven anything slower than a 14 sec car and I'm not about to start now. Yes, there are newer tech cars out there that can do the job but then you've got to factor in depreciation, costs to make them faster and most of them don't make you feel like your really driving.

If I was you birds, I'd keep dailying the GTST and track it if you feel the need and have gtr as weekend duties mobile.
Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, admS15 said:

tapatalk_1502087839842.jpeg

All in one. Daily and track hack. No f**ks given for fuel economy or if it gets smashed or stolen. Comfortable enough as long as there's no speed humps and fast enough at the track to leave some dedicated track cars with a wtf look. If I needed to, I'd consider a tow bar. R33 GTST, perfect weapon for that type of thing. Definitely a compromise but still works damn good.

What happened to F-Zero winning rims Billiam? 

UNR33L Grand Master

UNR33L

Posted
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Birds said:

Nah...cheap daily pros:

- Appreciate nice weekender more

- Less f**ks given if it's stolen or smashed

- Less depreciation from high mileage

- Generally better fuel economy

- No compromise made on the weekender which can have two doors and no tow bar

- Auto daily, manual weekender

All rounders compromise somewhere...in comfort or fun factor

I barely drive on the weekends as it is, and if I do it's to the track anyway(towbar) or to coles, fuel economy negated by having to pay rego, insurance, maintenance on a 2nd car.

I wouldn't want to spend 6-10 hours during the week driving a shittier daily to only have much less time in a nice weekender.

Auto daily and manual weekender would be nice though. 

Edited by UNR33L

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...