Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nahhh Darren, no man on man here mate!!! Sorry to disappoint haha. Anyways, so Darren do autos pull all over the shop in kws? Ps. I will have more than 2 grand for modding, just over a few months or so. I really don't want to go manual-but if huge difference in kW capabilities then maybe think about it. Or try rb25/30 on auto with built box

Just so you're aware a built auto box is around the $3-4K mark just for the box and that's generally on exchange basis.

For what it's worth I wouldn't bother with a stock box, either plan to build one from the outset or buy a manual car. I've got an early model RE4R01A auto box behind a 25/30 making 180rwkw but a lot of torque (lucky to be 300hp at the flywheel) with a shift kit and the box lasted 2000km before destroying the brake band. A later model RE4R01A like what comes in the R33/R34 is a little beefier with wider bands but it'd do the same thing eventually. I picked up a stronger RE4R03A and will try that with a shift kit but if it dies I'm putting the 25DET manual box in that's sitting under the bench as I can't justify sinking 4 grand into an auto box.

Cheers XR Pilot. But damn...3-4k for 2'000 km. it's a little disappointing to hear & only 180rwkw(sorry no disrespect XR). I was hoping for a lot more, like "Satanics" r34 project-I know it was a rb26/30 but still he kept it tip tronic & hit high hp. He did have hiccups though

Nahhh Darren, no man on man here mate!!! Sorry to disappoint haha. Anyways, so Darren do autos pull all over the shop in kws? Ps. I will have more than 2 grand for modding, just over a few months or so. I really don't want to go manual-but if huge difference in kW capabilities then maybe think about it. Or try rb25/30 on auto with built box

Im not disappointed, i like vags..

Just trying to explain to you that wilst you may be able to have the money to modify the car by doing porn, you will also probally give up the right to float wilst swimming to get it..

And the autos suck..stupid f**king lock up converter is shite ,get a th400 or glide

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Cheers XR Pilot. But damn...3-4k for 2'000 km. it's a little disappointing to hear & only 180rwkw(sorry no disrespect XR). I was hoping for a lot more, like "Satanics" r34 project-I know it was a rb26/30 but still he kept it tip tronic & hit high hp. He did have hiccups though

Just to be clear - that was a shift kitted STOCK auto that lasted 2000km - which is why I said plan on getting a proper built auto or just get a manual car. Also it's "only" making 180rwkw on 9psi on a STOCK R33 turbo. The car was built for daily duties and I have no doubt it'd be far quicker than a 300rwkw RB25 in point-and-squirt style traffic driving. It makes over 100rwkw at a bit over 2000rpm.

I haven't read back to see if it has been asked already but what are you trying to build the car for exactly? Drags, drift, circuit racing, daily driver? Not trying to be harsh but you need to figure that out before you a) spend any money and b) decide you need a 600hp auto Skyline.

Im not disappointed, i like vags..

Just trying to explain to you that wilst you may be able to have the money to modify the car by doing porn, you will also probally give up the right to float wilst swimming to get it..

And the autos suck..stupid f**king lock up converter is shite ,get a th400 or glide

cheers

darren

hey Darren, now I know what you're talking about, powerglide & th400. know them as 2 & 3 gear upgrades. How are they for Street driving ?

Are u looking to sell by any cance? Colour, kms, condition???

I had considered selling the entire box and transmission setup if the torque converter I am getting built doesn't end up doing what I want the car to do very well

(someone may want it for a different application, i.e drag)

But in all honesty, get the manual

If you would like to me expand on it, you should really, really, really get the manual.

To expand further, the gearbox has cost me closer to 10K to get it to where it is, which is good, but unless the TC from TCE makes it better than a manual (arguable!) you're at least, least, least spending 10K to get to the level where a $0 manual gearbox is at.

get the manual

To find out floor it till it swings a leg out of bed!!! Then back off 10% to be safe!!!

A manual RB25 can take 300rwkw and still be reliable. A NEO will - superior head - do a bit more.

Having said that I have now very likely angered the gods and mine will stop suddenly sometime soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...