Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks, I guess there is no need for the extra revs if that's the power goal.

What head work would you suggest?

Just trying to wrap my head around this - appreciate your replies

head work depends on your budget. Commonly ppl go port & polish.

My head built by Jhh Racing - CNC ported, supertech bronze valve guides, valves & dual springs, ferrea titanium retainers

Hks 272 cams and tomei cam gears... There's a lot more involved but that's just the components

post-16832-0-67161400-1441410585_thumb.jpgpost-16832-0-69666300-1441410607_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

head work depends on your budget. Commonly ppl go port & polish.

My head built by Jhh Racing - CNC ported, supertech bronze valve guides, valves & dual springs, ferrea titanium retainers

Hks 272 cams and tomei cam gears... There's a lot more involved but that's just the components

Out of interest what are your goals and what head work is needed to achieve it?

My goal was to be able to rev as its built for a drag power band, so this head is built to rev till 10,000rpm on my bottom end.

This same combo has revved to 11,000rpm with a lighter built bottom end.

Edited by QUP29
  • Like 1

It's been CNC machined ported for maximum flow. I don't know how much came out as its a Jhh racing spec, secret squirrel stuff also forgot its 1mm oversized as well so yes they did do valve work!

post-16832-0-22209000-1441438818_thumb.jpg

Edited by QUP29
  • Like 4
  • 1 year later...

Don't know if anyone is still interested but here is my real world experience. Own an R32. Made close to 400 atw. With bolt ons. Never did cams though. Was happy till a minor engine issue. Decided to rebuild. Didn't know if I wanted a 2.6 or a 2.8. Walked into a workshop and got to go for a ride in 2 gtrs. Both were single turbo cars 600hp 2.6 and a 740ish hp 2.8. Both drove better than my low mount twin setup. Why? They were better built and better equipped and better setup cars. Everything was matching. Either one could be driven daily. A well built, well setup car will be most fun to drive. Find a good shop. Get good parts. Take your time. If the opportunity is there. Drive different setups. I was sure I knew what I wanted. After just two drives, my plan turned on its head. There are so many videos of cars. Every combo you could think of. Nothing worse then redoing something.

 

 

 

  • Like 2
So what did you end up doing George?

A high compression ratio, forget, worked 2630 with a gtx4294r on the side sculling e85 through id2000s and 3x044 pumps.

Our first plan was a 26 with twin 2860-5 then we decided to go for 6466. After pooping my pants in an rb28, plan changed again. By luck a few parts for a 2630 turned up along with a turbo kit and here we are.

But I will never forget the difference between my car originally and the 2 gtrs in the shop. They were so well sorted. No flat power spots. Everything just worked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...