Jump to content
SAU Community

Will The 1988 Rule Be Changed?

linuxfanatic
 Share

Recommended Posts

linuxfanatic Apprentice

linuxfanatic

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The reason I'm so interested in the GXi is because I'm thinking about getting one as my first car, possibly to swap an SR20 in. And I can't get a GTS-T because my parents won't let me get a fast car (Craig, the ER34 I was talking to you about earlier was for my dad, who is looking to import one ;) ).

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted

The reason I'm so interested in the GXi is because I'm thinking about getting one as my first car, possibly to swap an SR20 in. And I can't get a GTS-T because my parents won't let me get a fast car (Craig, the ER34 I was talking to you about earlier was for my dad, who is looking to import one ;) ).

i thought you were building a game with it

The reason we want info about this is because we want to include a base model car as part of a game mod.

same with the rs4, er43 hr34... all the others you asked about.

its ok man im just busting your balls.

in all seriousness while your on your ps just drive a hatch back or camry or whatever, no need to pay big money for a shit car that looks like the fast cars.

just save your money for a good car when your licenced to buy one

EVERYONE will say they wished they did that.

  • Like 2
linuxfanatic Apprentice

linuxfanatic

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

i thought you were building a game with it

same with the rs4, er43 hr34... all the others you asked about.

its ok man im just busting your balls.

in all seriousness while your on your ps just drive a hatch back or camry or whatever, no need to pay big money for a shit car that looks like the fast cars.

just save your money for a good car when your licenced to buy one

EVERYONE will say they wished they did that.

We are building a game mod with the FR32.. we just can't give you much info about it because it's still very early in development :V

Thanks for your advice, I truly appreciate it ;) I'll drive my dad's Avalon on my P's then ;) But, in the future, if a FR32 comes for sale for a cheap price, should I think about buying it and swapping an SR20 in?

Edited by linuxfanatic
Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted

But, in the future, if a FR32 comes for sale for a cheap price, should I think about buying it and swapping an SR20 in?

As I believe no importer will ever import the FR32, ask yourself, is it worth...

1. Spend money purchasing the FR32 from Japan

2. Spend the money shipping it to Australia

3. Spend the money putting it through compliance

4. Spend the money registering

5. Spend the money buying the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

6. Spend the money fitting the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

7. Spend the money engineering your now modified FR32

8. Spend the money insuring your now modified FR32

If you answered yes to all these questions and the gumbyment changes the rules to allow you to import a FR32, then draw up a plan on how to make it happen and then make it happen.

Personally, to me it makes much more sense to buy a R32 rolling shell that's already here in Australia and fit the engine / gearbox / whatever else it takes to have a working car if I really wanted a SR20 powered R32

  • Like 1
linuxfanatic Apprentice

linuxfanatic

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

As I believe no importer will ever import the FR32, ask yourself, is it worth...

1. Spend money purchasing the FR32 from Japan

2. Spend the money shipping it to Australia

3. Spend the money putting it through compliance

4. Spend the money registering

5. Spend the money buying the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

6. Spend the money fitting the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

7. Spend the money engineering your now modified FR32

8. Spend the money insuring your now modified FR32

If you answered yes to all these questions and the gumbyment changes the rules to allow you to import a FR32, then draw up a plan on how to make it happen and then make it happen.

Personally, to me it makes much more sense to buy a R32 rolling shell that's already here in Australia and fit the engine / gearbox / whatever else it takes to have a working car if I really wanted a SR20 powered R32

You're right. it's a shit idea. Could an admin please delete this thread?

Edited by linuxfanatic
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iamhe77
      Might import a stagea

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • iamhe77
      Stagea identification?

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...