Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The reason I'm so interested in the GXi is because I'm thinking about getting one as my first car, possibly to swap an SR20 in. And I can't get a GTS-T because my parents won't let me get a fast car (Craig, the ER34 I was talking to you about earlier was for my dad, who is looking to import one ;) ).

The reason I'm so interested in the GXi is because I'm thinking about getting one as my first car, possibly to swap an SR20 in. And I can't get a GTS-T because my parents won't let me get a fast car (Craig, the ER34 I was talking to you about earlier was for my dad, who is looking to import one ;) ).

i thought you were building a game with it

The reason we want info about this is because we want to include a base model car as part of a game mod.

same with the rs4, er43 hr34... all the others you asked about.

its ok man im just busting your balls.

in all seriousness while your on your ps just drive a hatch back or camry or whatever, no need to pay big money for a shit car that looks like the fast cars.

just save your money for a good car when your licenced to buy one

EVERYONE will say they wished they did that.

  • Like 2

i thought you were building a game with it

same with the rs4, er43 hr34... all the others you asked about.

its ok man im just busting your balls.

in all seriousness while your on your ps just drive a hatch back or camry or whatever, no need to pay big money for a shit car that looks like the fast cars.

just save your money for a good car when your licenced to buy one

EVERYONE will say they wished they did that.

We are building a game mod with the FR32.. we just can't give you much info about it because it's still very early in development :V

Thanks for your advice, I truly appreciate it ;) I'll drive my dad's Avalon on my P's then ;) But, in the future, if a FR32 comes for sale for a cheap price, should I think about buying it and swapping an SR20 in?

Edited by linuxfanatic

But, in the future, if a FR32 comes for sale for a cheap price, should I think about buying it and swapping an SR20 in?

As I believe no importer will ever import the FR32, ask yourself, is it worth...

1. Spend money purchasing the FR32 from Japan

2. Spend the money shipping it to Australia

3. Spend the money putting it through compliance

4. Spend the money registering

5. Spend the money buying the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

6. Spend the money fitting the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

7. Spend the money engineering your now modified FR32

8. Spend the money insuring your now modified FR32

If you answered yes to all these questions and the gumbyment changes the rules to allow you to import a FR32, then draw up a plan on how to make it happen and then make it happen.

Personally, to me it makes much more sense to buy a R32 rolling shell that's already here in Australia and fit the engine / gearbox / whatever else it takes to have a working car if I really wanted a SR20 powered R32

  • Like 1

As I believe no importer will ever import the FR32, ask yourself, is it worth...

1. Spend money purchasing the FR32 from Japan

2. Spend the money shipping it to Australia

3. Spend the money putting it through compliance

4. Spend the money registering

5. Spend the money buying the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

6. Spend the money fitting the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes

7. Spend the money engineering your now modified FR32

8. Spend the money insuring your now modified FR32

If you answered yes to all these questions and the gumbyment changes the rules to allow you to import a FR32, then draw up a plan on how to make it happen and then make it happen.

Personally, to me it makes much more sense to buy a R32 rolling shell that's already here in Australia and fit the engine / gearbox / whatever else it takes to have a working car if I really wanted a SR20 powered R32

You're right. it's a shit idea. Could an admin please delete this thread?

Edited by linuxfanatic
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...