Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a R32 GTST with a RB20 DET.

I am planning to build the engine but before I do I want to get some info on the RB25.

What are its strengths and weaknesses?

How is it when put into a R32 GTST?

What are the pros and cons of putting that engine in a R32 GTST?

There have been literally millions of words written about this. Do a basic search first.

Ive done a search, I want to get up to date experiences. I spend about 8 hours plus research this on many sites.

Not just that, but we've all been saying it to Yoshii since he emerged, and those experiences are definitely up to date. I only did my Neo32 transplant a couple of years ago.

f**king awesome.

Edited by GTSBoy

Not just that, but we've all been saying it to Yoshii since he emerged, and those experiences are definitely up to date. I only did my Neo32 transplant a couple of years ago.

f**king awesome.

I read some things about the RB25 and I thought I read several places that something about the oil pump or something to do with the oil that the RB25 has trouble with more compared to the RB20. I've actually heard a few people where I live mention the 25 is not all of that and its keep what I have or go RB26 or GTR(This is from tuning shops also). So I want to hear from people who have the engine in their car and who has done the change so I can ask about how it drives, speed, etc. Reading old posts from years ago(which I have) is not going to completely help because I am not going to try to PM someone or reply to a 2-10 year old posts.

I dont know how to express my laughter at that post. What an outrageous response.

Implying that there is not enough documentation about a) how the motor performs and b) WELL KNOWN oil issues

Its almost the single most popular conversion ever

HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH

I dont know how to express my laughter at that post. What an outrageous response.

Implying that there is not enough documentation about a) how the motor performs and b) WELL KNOWN oil issues

Its almost the single most popular conversion ever

HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH

Maybe you don't understand, I am wanting to speak to someone here and now so I can ask that person hear and now. Maybe I have specific questions about the engine or their experiences with the engine, what problems they may have had, what things that helped them, etc.

I reckon I'll be buried with mine..................gunna be crowded though, already have two motorbikes to throw in as well. Any vehicle that can be pushed as hard with a standard motor - such as the humble RB25 or 26 - to the point where you can get more than twice the power output for every day reliable street use for stuff all $$$ and TBH minimal mods deserves respect.

I honestly cannot see the point of your thread.........but its a free world until you shoot someone!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...