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Questions About Putting A Rb26 Into A R32 Gtst (yes Researched)

yoshiii335

By yoshiii335,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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yoshiii335 Rising Star

yoshiii335

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Posted (edited)

Hello

I have some questions about putting a rb26 into a r32 gtst. In case I am able to afford to do this.

I have resereached and read lots of post about this.

From what I have learned so far, it seems I have to, use the rb26 wiring loom (r32 gtr), use the r32 gtst engine mounts, cut off the diffs on the oil pan, cut a hole in the r32 gtst body for the gtr intercooler pipes(the indentation for the hole is there all ready), use a r32 gtr computer, use the r32 gtr gauge cluster, use the r32 gtst power steering pump, use a resister pack for the gtr injectors and run a wire to the battery, use the r32 gtst transmission until I can get a r33 gtst transmission put into the car.

Is there anything I am missing?

One thing that I cant seem to find exact info about is if the heater hoses will line up and connect to the RB26 without any modifications. Also will there be any problems with only using the rb26 wiring loom?

I have a r32 gtr fuel pump in the car already. How will the car operate with the system that runs the r32 gtst fuel pump system since I will be using a r32 gtr computer?

Is this the complete list of things I need to do?

Edited by yoshiii335
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Of course it's not the complete list of things you have to do. There's always going to be another 20 little things that come along to frustrate you.

Your list is a reasonable stab at it, although I would argue it's probably not compulsory to use the GTR instrument cluster, nor is it completely necessary to cut a hole for the intercooler pipe (there are other options).

If you use a complete GTR engine bay loom then you get the resister pack and the wiring for the injectors, so it's not hard there either.

There is no "system" that runs the fuel pump that is significantly different to the GTR setup as far as I am aware. Keep in min the fact that the RB20 and RB26 ECUs are almost the same thing. Most of the pinout is the same -- the GTR just has the extra bits for 2x AFMs and 2xknock sensors. Not much else is different.

You're probably going to need GTR heater hoses, because I'm pretty sure that the connection points on the back of the inlet manifold are different and the RB20 ones probably won't line up.

Here's the thing though. Unless you're going to use a later 33 or a 34 RB26, then you're buying an old RB26. I see no value in transplanting in old engines. If you're going to freshen it up first, then great, but that adds a lot of $$. I don't know for sure but the later RB26s are not completely sensor compatible with the R32 ECU.....so there's probably some stuffing around that you'd have to do there.

Whilst an RB26 might have a certain cachet to it that other engines do not.....stock they don't really offer anything that a Neo25 doesn't offer (sure they sound different). While putting a Neo in involves more stuffing around with wiring and shit, you are by default getting an R34 engine, so much newer.

yoshiii335 Rising Star

yoshiii335

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Of course it's not the complete list of things you have to do. There's always going to be another 20 little things that come along to frustrate you.

Your list is a reasonable stab at it, although I would argue it's probably not compulsory to use the GTR instrument cluster, nor is it completely necessary to cut a hole for the intercooler pipe (there are other options).

If you use a complete GTR engine bay loom then you get the resister pack and the wiring for the injectors, so it's not hard there either.

There is no "system" that runs the fuel pump that is significantly different to the GTR setup as far as I am aware. Keep in min the fact that the RB20 and RB26 ECUs are almost the same thing. Most of the pinout is the same -- the GTR just has the extra bits for 2x AFMs and 2xknock sensors. Not much else is different.

You're probably going to need GTR heater hoses, because I'm pretty sure that the connection points on the back of the inlet manifold are different and the RB20 ones probably won't line up.

Here's the thing though. Unless you're going to use a later 33 or a 34 RB26, then you're buying an old RB26. I see no value in transplanting in old engines. If you're going to freshen it up first, then great, but that adds a lot of $$. I don't know for sure but the later RB26s are not completely sensor compatible with the R32 ECU.....so there's probably some stuffing around that you'd have to do there.

Whilst an RB26 might have a certain cachet to it that other engines do not.....stock they don't really offer anything that a Neo25 doesn't offer (sure they sound different). While putting a Neo in involves more stuffing around with wiring and shit, you are by default getting an R34 engine, so much newer.

I guess I need to prepare to buy new parts for the engine if r32 26. My friend who had a r33 gtst that was tuned said that it sucked having the car tuned because of the VCT. Do you know if the 25's are harder to tune because of this? Do you know of any shops in Australia that sell premade looms for a rb25 into a 32 conversion? The 26 is easier to install it seems.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It can't suck to tune "because of VCT". VCT gets switched on/off at one rpm. You set it there, tune the mixtures and timing with it set, then you turn it off and do a power run with it off, then you turn it on and do a power run with it on. The two curves will cross at a particular engine speed. That's more or less where you should set it to operate. It may or may not be a bit different to stock, but it won't be far away unless you have changed inlet manifold length drastically. Then you just retune the mixtures and timing around that engine speed to make sure that they are right and job done. It's not hard.

When I did my Neo into 32 I gave the R34 engine loom to my brother-in-law whose workshop does these conversions. I gave it to him well in advance and they tore the loom apart where it needed modifying and pre-built it to suit R32, including putting the right wiring and connectors into/onto it. That made dropping the engine in a lot easier. Just pulled the R32 loom out and sold it with the engine, poked the R34 loom through the firewall and laid it into the right places in the bay. I still haven't air con working 2 years later though, but that's due to slackness.

Anyway, I was going to say "No, I don't know of any workshops that sell pre-made looms".......but in fact I can point you to my bro-in-law's business and they could build you one to order. You'd either need to supply an R34 loom to them or pay them to obtain one, because they won't have one just lying around.

The 26 is certainly going to be a bit easier to put in.. It does have a few of its own hassles, but they are probably different/smaller hassles. I just wouldn't do it with an old engine, as I said before. And if you do it with a newer engine you're probably buying some of the same extra work from doing a Neo conversion. Later connectors/wiring etc.

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Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

wasn't there a thread about this like a few months ago that you started?

Why would you choose a RB26 when a RB25DET NEO cost less and overall better?

  • Like 1
Nismo34R Enthusiast

Nismo34R

Posted
Posted

You sir need a v8. A carby 308 5l would go nice. Ecu loom you say? Hahaha what loom?

Walkinshaw aren't the go to guys anymore.. Tekno Performance are the new guys on the block taking over the v8 world here in Oz. You can buy a new SS or HSV from the dealership and have it delivered to you after going through Tekno where they will fit what ever stage power pack you would like and you still have your new car warranty inc drive train from Holden..

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