Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I know this has been covered a million times before. I've been searching the forums and google but haven't really find the answer I was looking for. (Sorta)

I recently had a pre-purchase inspection done on a GTR I'm interested in and the compression test come back as 120 across all cylinders. Some people have said this is OK as it's consistent and others have said it's too low. Can someone please let me know if these figures are ok or too low as everything else has checked out and I'm close to putting down a deposit.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462884-rb26-compression-test-results/
Share on other sites

Can be a number of things, after market head gasket, worn seals/bores

Low compression across all cylinders generally associate with a tired motor, i would only bite if you were to factor the cost of a rebuild into the price, which you would want to do anyway regardless of condition if long term ownership is your goal

Both statements "its too low" and "its consistent so its OK" are pretty much right.

Standard compression according to the workshop manual is 171psi, so 120 is way low.

However, you don't know if the test was done correctly, with an accurate guage, with a fully charged battery, with a warm engine etc etc as it should be.

So instead people generally look for consistency in the results because that removes all those factors.

The main things you are trying to avoid with a compression test are some sort of major mechanical issue like a broken ring land, bent valve etc etc which will show up even if the test is not done correctly. The remaining issue is general wear on the rings which can show up as low compression everywhere, but even then it tends not to be consistent.

So....the remaining problem is it may be heigh klm and the rings worn. Does it smoke at idle or light throttle driving?

  • Like 1

Seems like the check was done on a cold engine. (not sure why)

Car was re-checked at running temp and come back at 150-155 across all cylinders and I'm much more comfortable with that.

  • Like 2

So to carry this thread on longer the variation here is 30psi.

Is that average/normal?

What should it be cold? compared to 170psi when warm and new.

Cams, head gaskets can create variation as well as a looser build for higher end builds/power

Worn engines reducing in compression due to wear.

A cold compression test can tell you as much as a warm compression test. At least when it's cold you have a better chance of picking up irregular noises.

Hence the no greater than 10% across all 6 as a general rule.

Edited by Sinista32

I've been watching this thread and I think we're both happy to report the car made 160-165 per cylinder today at Croydon Racing Developments.

We still have no clue what method was used for the first test to get 120 and to be frank, I don't think I want to know lol.

I'm glad it is now put to bed!

  • Like 1

I've been watching this thread and I think we're both happy to report the car made 160-165 per cylinder today at Croydon Racing Developments.

We still have no clue what method was used for the first test to get 120 and to be frank, I don't think I want to know lol.

I'm glad it is now put to bed!

Official paperwork said 170-165 across all cylinders. Car came back with very good results from CRD and I was really happy with their service. I Would definitely recommend them to anyone is Sydney.

Very happy and glad it's been put to bed.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...

digging up an old thread .. had a compression test done as per a pre purchase inspection on a R34 GTR with 77,000km. The car is mainly stock and had cooled down quite abit before the test was done but not cold.. the results were ;

 150 - 150 - 148 - 149 - 139 - 143

Cylinder 5 a worry?
 

Edited by jaysevu
  • 6 months later...

digging up an old thread again.. hopefully get an answer this time haha. Inspected another r34 GTR and did a comp test.

The engine was rebuilt in 2010.. 

152 - 140 - 150 - 160 - 155 - 155

I read there shouldn't be anymore then 10% discrepancy between cylinders so is 140-160 a bit much? 

Depends on whether you take 10% discrepancy to be "from lowest to highest" or "from any one to the average/median".  On that basis, your typical value is ~155 and the lowest one is just on 10% lower than that.  There is also measurement error associated with both your lowest and your highest values (and all the others in fact, but we'll ignore those as they are so close together).  So it could be worse or a little better than your numbers show.

If it were me - I'd like to see the worst one not be that bad.  But it is probably fine and could and probably will run just fine for a looooong time.  Or, it could be an indicator that the injector in that cylinder is a bit crappy and has damaged the exhaust valve or seat or any of a bazzillion other possibilities.  Did a leakdown test get done also?  Can be more informative than just a comp test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...