Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone going to bypass Church St to Homebush M4?

Is $4 (one way) fair?

Is the increase on the M5-East justified?

Do you think there'll be a traffic jam at Church St offramp in the mornings? And will it be only temporary?

If there's a traffic jam at Church St, will the offramp at Cumberland Hwy get congested?

Might the M4/M5 Toll cause you to switch to public transport?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/
Share on other sites

When I used to work in Canterbury, I used to go to work via James Ruse Drive, Kissing Point Road and Silverwater Rd and jump on the M4 from there to avoid the toll. If they're not going to offer refunds like they do for the M5 scheme, then I'll probably travel via that old route on the very rare occasion that I head in towards the city.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7699702
Share on other sites

I will happily pay the tolls IF and only IF traffic is not bumper to bumper. I'm not convinced that expanding the lanes will fix the issue - We are probably at the stage with population/drivers where even 4 lanes is inadequate but then again those who don't want to pay tolls wont use it so its a possibility that the M4 will clear up. I will be using Vic road if the M4 is still congested when they are done

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7699878
Share on other sites

I've been traveling on the M4 from Outer Western Sydney to Lidcombe every morning to work for the past 4 years. Some days are great and some days are just plain crap...

I'll 100% be avoiding the toll area from the first day as I don't believe getting charged to sit in the M4 carpark or any toll way is acceptable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7699899
Share on other sites

Springwood > Earlwood

Plan B:- Cumberland Hwy > Merrylands > Guilford > Chester Hill > Greenacre > Campsie...

Plan C:- Prospect Hwy > Girraween > Wetherill Park > Fairfield > Lansvale > Bankstown > Belmore...

Plan D:- Mamre Rd > Kemps Creek > Cabramatta > Chipping Norton > Padstow > Narwee > Kingsgrove...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7700001
Share on other sites

The heaviest traffic runs from Centenary drive to James Ruse drive in the afternoon; the toll will push a lot of traffic back on to surface roads.

This will help reduce the congestion on the M4 but delays will just be transferred to roads which are not equipped to deal with it.

I'll have no alternative to paying the toll, but it will still be less than the M7-M2 tolls to get to Macquarie Park; which are extortionate.

This ideal "user pays" system that our state govt desires, is totally failed by a sub-par public transport system; and a lack of initiative to actively decentralise business.

We fill our roads with cars and trains with bodies and travel huge distances because employers and successive governments refuse to provide incentives to business to move out of a 30km square of radically overpriced real estate.

Then we have these same short sighted governments scolding us like naughty schoolchildren; because we are "addicted to our cars"...

f**k off dream boats.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7700100
Share on other sites

?

In about 3 months it begins.

any source on that? All the articles I can find say 2017 after the upgrades, but then will continue until 2060.

Also, off topic, but M5 rebate went through! Luckily I had unknowingly signed up for it when I set up my E-Toll account a few years ago, and you are able to apply up to 12 months after the end of the quarter, so I could it all back! (a measly $60, but hey a free tank of petrol!)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7700166
Share on other sites

I will happily pay the tolls IF and only IF traffic is not bumper to bumper. I'm not convinced that expanding the lanes will fix the issue - We are probably at the stage with population/drivers where even 4 lanes is inadequate but then again those who don't want to pay tolls wont use it so its a possibility that the M4 will clear up. I will be using Vic road if the M4 is still congested when they are done

Indeed....when has adding more lanes ever made traffic move faster?

eg, 2 years after the major M2 upgrade:

"The largest fall was on the M2 Hills Motorway from North Ryde to Carlingford, where the average afternoon peak hour speed plunged by 25km/h to 46km/h" [/size]http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/peak-hour-in-sydney-is-getting-worse--and-longer-data-shows-20160310-gnftvd.html#ixzz43UZPvpCq [/size]

I was unfortunate enough to have to take that daily during the upgrade; full toll, horrible traffic, and once it was finished within a year or 2 it is back worse than ever. The only people who benefitted were Transurban and their shareholders

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7700572
Share on other sites

Pretty soon the only traffic solution is going to be to start building elevated roads a few metres above the existing ones. The elevated road network would be for transit and the ground road network would be to access homes and businesses and stuff.

I wouldn't mind taking public transport to uni if it didn't take an hour and a half each way. Driving is usually quicker except in the worst of rush hours, plus I find pleasure in driving and I can carry around more than what fits into a backpack.

Edited by Wordsmith
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463700-m4-toll/#findComment-7700857
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...