Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i have finnished a RB30/26 build now for my drift car that will se around 800-850whp.

Im currently sitting on a stock gearbox and that wont last long with semi slicks tyres.

So im looking for a uprated gear set for my 25 housing and decided to go for a straight cut.

A company here in Sweden just started importing the PAR gear sets, i did some searching around SAU and found that it was not so much positive information to read about PAR engineering.

But that was from about 08 to -12 then it goes quiet.

Have PAR gotten their shit togeather or did just people stop buying their products?

Here in Sweden it's like half the price for the PAR kit vs a PPG kit so i thought it was worth asking.

So are they still shit and what was the problem back in the days when they failed?

And do you guys know if anyone use them for drifting now days?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/
Share on other sites

I saw the same, they had a run of problems and then have gone quiet. I'm going to try them for my next box, my car doesn't make big power and I'm willing to take a chance to save that much....

Occasionally the top boxes like hollinger come up on here 2nd hand under $20k, but what everyone forgets with them is the cost of the annual rebuild at hollinger prices...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7714092
Share on other sites

I have problem and same question so i build my motor and i end up with 900whp on BNR34 GTR it is a v pec ii

i did few launches and gear box is ok i did fully rebuild it with all new factory gears and i am using it now and feels good.

how ever i do have question about the axels in front and rear can they handle the power and i don't like how my diff not locking. It suppose to be since awd straight forward. car did snake shape i prefer to just lock the diff... what people have done with this massive power.

Any recommendation can help. Thanks.

IMG 0634

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7714098
Share on other sites

I have problem and same question so i build my motor and i end up with 900whp on BNR34 GTR it is a v pec ii

i did few launches and gear box is ok i did fully rebuild it with all new factory gears and i am using it now and feels good.

how ever i do have question about the axels in front and rear can they handle the power and i don't like how my diff not locking. It suppose to be since awd straight forward. car did snake shape i prefer to just lock the diff... what people have done with this massive power.

Any recommendation can help. Thanks.

At the top of this page the second "pinned" thread is about the computer controlled LSD in the back of your V-Spec. If you read all of it (its not too much) you will find out how to service your diff so that it works properly. If you can afford it now wold be a good time to put a Quaife LSD in the front of your car (available from Palmside in Christchurch NZ) and if you have the time and inclination there is information in this section on how to beef up your transfer case (with a GTR the spending never ends!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7714260
Share on other sites

Word of warning regarding gerrard and PAR gearsets. Stay thafuq away from them. Searching my gearbox threads will explains

Yeah i have seen that you have had your fair share of problems with PAR.

What was your main problem with the kit? braking the gears?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7714496
Share on other sites

I know of two people using PAR gear sets and they swear by them. One is actually an engineer for BMW and builds some very impressive track cars.

I've heard they have come a long way since 2009-2012.

Apparently some of the quickest 35s in the world are using PAR gears.

I'm in the same boat and was looking at PAR however might just go the PPG or seq route

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7715793
Share on other sites

My pulsar runs a PAR gearset, previous owner went through the whole process so i can only really pass on what he said and other pulsar peoples opinions...

He said they make a good product, but workmanship wasnt consistent (this was prior to 2011). Gearbox was sent back 2-3 times to be re-assembled properly.

Ever since ive had it, the gearbox has been a dream (touch wood). Its the best manual ive driven, i love it. Can treat it like a dirty broad minded person or baby it. I do use their recommended Neo gearbox oil though, which aint too cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7716618
Share on other sites

800hp RB25/30 drift daily driver whut, crazy Swedes... :P

What's wrong with helical cut gears? Or are you after straight cut whine?

Hehe, yeah it's pretty close to a competition car without a rollcage. But it passed the MOT last year so it's "street legal"

I just think that straight cut vill be stronger. I dont know how many that have killed a OS giken gear set but i know that i would kill my self if i bought one for that amount of money and it went suicide on me..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464286-par-engineering/#findComment-7719893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...