Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Couple questions in regards to modifications to an rb25det neo in an R34

If I decide on dropping in Tomei poncams, would I need to upgrade springs and retainers too?

Obviously it would be beneficial to do so however due to potential budget restrictions, it may not be an option

If the answer is yes, then I may turn my current internally gated Hypergear Atr43ss2 into external gate and be able to afford to do valve springs and retainers

If the answer is no, then I may use the funds to upgrade to an externally gated Atr45 instead

Any input, advice or feedback is appreciated

Thanks

Edited by Swole
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464905-rb25det-neo-mod-questions/
Share on other sites

  On 20/05/2016 at 4:24 AM, Swole said:

If the answer is yes, then I may turn my current internally gated Hypergear Atr43ss2 into external gate and be able to afford to do valve springs and retainers

I would think by the time you buy a gate and modify pipe work you won't "make" any cash

  On 20/05/2016 at 4:27 AM, GTSBoy said:

Which cams? How hard do you plan to spin the motor? What are you using it for?

Tomei 260 drop ins

Aiming for around 350rwkw mark on eflex

Using it mainly for street use

  On 20/05/2016 at 5:18 AM, t_revz said:

I would think by the time you buy a gate and modify pipe work you won't "make" any cash

True, however that would still cost less then buying an Atr45 with chra roller bearing + labour then to externally gate my current one :)

Well, the definition of "drop in" implies that you don't need to change anything else. But when you couple the increased mechanical loads from the cam AND the boost level you need to make 350rwkW, you do start to worry about valve float. As usual, YMMV. I'd suggest that the usual approach is to suck it and see. That doesn't work if total budget is a problem though. If it were me, I'd not change the cams at all, and save all the money.

  On 20/05/2016 at 5:59 AM, GTSBoy said:

Well, the definition of "drop in" implies that you don't need to change anything else. But when you couple the increased mechanical loads from the cam AND the boost level you need to make 350rwkW, you do start to worry about valve float. As usual, YMMV. I'd suggest that the usual approach is to suck it and see. That doesn't work if total budget is a problem though. If it were me, I'd not change the cams at all, and save all the money.

This is true

Thanks

A good stock Neo engine doesn't valve float we were running them toward 30psi and they are fine.

The Cams are not required on the Neo either. Stock cams on ATR45SAT is good good enough to support towards 400rwkws on E85 fuel.

For externally gated setup the ATR45SAT in Ceramic ball bearing setup will be making alot more power then the ss2, and specially if its an older version SS2 its not laggier. You can get some where towards 370rwkws using it internally gated. But it needs a big PWR cooler and at least 4 inches exhaust to get there.

  On 20/05/2016 at 1:17 PM, hypergear said:

A good stock Neo engine doesn't valve float we were running them toward 30psi and they are fine.

The Cams are not required on the Neo either. Stock cams on ATR45SAT is good good enough to support towards 400rwkws on E85 fuel.

For externally gated setup the ATR45SAT in Ceramic ball bearing setup will be making alot more power then the ss2, and specially if its an older version SS2 its not laggier. You can get some where towards 370rwkws using it internally gated. But it needs a big PWR cooler and at least 4 inches exhaust to get there.

I was going to PM you later down the track asking whether I would need to upgrade valve springs and retainers (or even head gasket) to make close to 400rwkw with an ATR45 roller bearing!

Cams has simply been a long term personal goal for me haha

Thanks

Edited by Swole

i have tomei type b cams in mine, as well as an older SS2 ex gate currently making 324kw on 16 psi and e70. with bigger injectors (maxed 725cc atm) and more boost mine would see 350kw+ easy on e85 :) just an indication of what you could do

Spend your money on turbo, wastegate, fmic, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, AFM if necessary, (I presume you already have an aftermarket ecu or a Nistune chip) - these are the priorities - you can save up for cams later if you really want.

  On 20/05/2016 at 2:34 PM, Artic Choc said:

i have tomei type b cams in mine, as well as an older SS2 ex gate currently making 324kw on 16 psi and e70. with bigger injectors (maxed 725cc atm) and more boost mine would see 350kw+ easy on e85 :) just an indication of what you could do

That's awesome

Planning on upgrading the injectors?

If I can get away with it, I might go with an ATR45 with cams on flex/85 and aim close to 400rwkw

  On 21/05/2016 at 12:06 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Spend your money on turbo, wastegate, fmic, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, AFM if necessary, (I presume you already have an aftermarket ecu or a Nistune chip) - these are the priorities - you can save up for cams later if you really want.

Already got a complete Plazmaman set up including plenum, throttle and intercooler running a Haltech ps2000. Gotta upgrade the injectors and pump for 85 which I've already included in my budget :)

Edited by Swole
  On 21/05/2016 at 12:06 AM, Swole said:

That's awesome

Planning on upgrading the injectors?

If I can get away with it, I might go with an ATR45 with cams on flex/85 and aim close to 400rwkw

Wont be upgrading injectors im happy with it for now... i have other plans for the car atm. Why not go a gtx35r and faceroll 400kw?

  On 21/05/2016 at 6:49 AM, Artic Choc said:

Wont be upgrading injectors im happy with it for now... i have other plans for the car atm. Why not go a gtx35r and faceroll 400kw?

Fair call

Correct me if I'm wrong cause I haven't looked much into it, but an ATR45 is cheaper and I'm staying low mount

ATR45 has also been proven to exceed 400rwkw, however that's with upgraded springs and pistons

I'll be consulting with Tao on whether I'd be able to get away without upgrading those to achieve close to, if not, 400 on e85 :)

For my 10c I believe there is type A and B Poncams for the Neo Turbo 25 and I would go for the type As or OE cams .

From memory the type As are about 252 duration and the type Bs 260 .

Where the Neo has it over the R33 25DET engine is a bit more lift and more aggressive lift ramps on the cams . This obviously didn't work with the R33s hydraulic buckets hence the solid ones and shim adjustment .

I believe Nissan was looking to pull the torque peak down the rev range on the GTt hence better valve train and different inlet manifold volume .

I think the longer period B cams would cost you low down part throttle torque and be less suited to the NEOs manifold .

One here with a Neo type Stag went B cams and regretted the decision later .

You call , mine would be standard or at most the shorter Poncams .

A .

  On 21/05/2016 at 10:00 AM, discopotato03 said:

For my 10c I believe there is type A and B Poncams for the Neo Turbo 25 and I would go for the type As or OE cams .

From memory the type As are about 252 duration and the type Bs 260 .

Where the Neo has it over the R33 25DET engine is a bit more lift and more aggressive lift ramps on the cams . This obviously didn't work with the R33s hydraulic buckets hence the solid ones and shim adjustment .

I believe Nissan was looking to pull the torque peak down the rev range on the GTt hence better valve train and different inlet manifold volume .

I think the longer period B cams would cost you low down part throttle torque and be less suited to the NEOs manifold .

One here with a Neo type Stag went B cams and regretted the decision later .

You call , mine would be standard or at most the shorter Poncams .

A .

Correct

However I do want the 260 duration

  On 21/05/2016 at 10:19 AM, AngryRB said:

Dont these neo guys rev out higher than r33's, ive seen them go well over 7k which type b's would be in the zone. I got some for the 2530neo so hopefully they'll aid the flow

Mine does

  On 21/05/2016 at 10:47 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Standard cams/springs/retainers good for over 400kw. Nissan did good, leave it standard.

This is what I'm thinking

  On 21/05/2016 at 10:48 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What's wrong with stock cams?

Recently a R34 done by Chequered Tuning spun over 400kW using a Hypergear ATR45SAT turbo.

Nothing's wrong

Oo was that unopened head?

Cams have just been a goal for myself, really just after the lump/response shockingly haha

Main question is whether I'd need to also upgrade the springs/retainers/(headgasket) if I did cams and went for 400rwkw :P

Appreciate all the input though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...