Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

E85 is not out of the question.  I would suggest that you can take the tinfoil hat off.  There are many people on these forums and others reporting that E85 sits just fine in a fuel tank without absorbing the Pacific Ocean.

And if you left the tinfoil hat on there are ways and means that you could get around any such problem.  Such as, put it away with a nearly empty tank, and put fresh fuel into it from a jerry can just before you use it.  Or any variation on the theme.

Let's face it....old petrol is worse than new petrol.  If you leave old petrol in a tank for 6 weeks it will change over that time.  If you ever find yourself leaving a car for a long period of time then the best thing is to leave it with as little fuel in it as possible and put new fuel in it immediately - well at least before giving it any curry.

I must be missing something here, 

20 minutes ago, lcxu105 said:

It only gets use maybe once a month and can sit upto six weeks at  time and not move.

So e85 is out of the question.

I must be missing something here, there is a general statement then E85 gets ruled out.... how are these two things related?  Pretty much everyone I know who run E85 use them about that much and leave them for that kind of time period regularly as we don't get E85 at the pump, so it's usually a race car thing and the cars tend to sit with it.  The only issue so far with my mates ones have been one which had non-E85 compatible foam in the fuel tank which got dissolved and caused issues in the fuel system... lots of crap through everything, but easily avoided by making sure everything is E85 compatible.

Most race type fuels have down sides and things to be aware of, if you're going to be paranoid then use 98.  

My car sat with half a tank of E85 whilst I had the motor and box out over four months. Starts and runs fine every time and the same fuel will still be in it when it leaves the garage in October, obviously I'll fill her up with fresh E but Iv never had a problem.

Another point- That fuel has been sitting in my tank since last December.

Plenty of people let it sit and never have issues.

Have used lots of old E85 that people have given away for sitting over 2-3 months. Oldest fuel I have used is easily over 1yr old and car ran fine, AFR was fine. This was giving the car a very hard time at Queensland raceway as well in 40deg heat

Doesn't matter.  Exactly what is going to happen anyway?  I won't type it all out again, but perhaps search for a couple of posts on here where I tiraded over the stupidity of thinking that gallons of water can get into your fuel tank through whatever air movement there is.

yes E85 is hygroscopic, ie will absorb moisture from the air, but at the same time, 98RON fuel has additives which are quite volatile and will "gas off" over time which will reduce the octane rating of 98 if left to sit.

A bit of absorbed water in E85 is less likely to affect it's octane rating, as it's the ethanol content that provides the high octane.

Normal 98 fuel left sitting could be closer to 95 octane by the time it's sucked into the engine - IMO a bigger risk on an engine highly tuned for fresh 98.

IMO the "sitting" time is not a good criteria for deciding E85 vs 98.

It's more about your horsepower requirements, availability of E85, ability to fill up on a long drive, carrying jerry cans of fuel etc

cheers

Mike

  • Like 1
31 minutes ago, lcxu105 said:

Ok than. I've heard that e85 turns into a jelly. Has anyone ever had this happen to them 

 

Whoever told you that please go headbutt them. I have been running e85 for the past 4 years and left 40L in the tank while the car was off the road for 10 months and nothing bad has happened.

1 hour ago, lcxu105 said:

Ok than. I've heard that e85 turns into a jelly. Has anyone ever had this happen to them 

 

Maybe if your E85 absorbs enough moisture over time and you add a few packets of jelly to the fuel tank it will, but honestly it aint going to do shit.

Opened up my filters two weeks ago after sitting around from November with E85 in the tank. These fuel filters were cleaned in July/August last year. This is what came out. Was pretty yuck.

Whole fuel system went in the bin!

AD372875-F66A-4E59-B5B3-A148391C7DB2_zps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...