Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Piece together a Nismo style oil cooler kit for R34

I am trying to piece together a Nismo style oil cooler kit for my R34. seems like you can just buy the Nismo oil cooler ducts, and would be a lot cheaper to buy all the parts seperately and you get better result. Similar to what member HIRISK has done. Do you know what size Setrab oil cooler should I get?

  1. Setrab Oil Cooler (need correct size)
  2. Nismo Oil Cooler Ductings
  3. TRUST GREDDY GREX Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat
  4. TRUST GREDDY GREX Engine Oil Block Adapter
  5. Nomex/Kevlar braided hose
  6. -10AN Fittings

gallery_391_5153_48547.jpg

gallery_391_5153_246622.jpg

12814_Greddy_12401114_FS01-01@2x1446872913563d87515ef14.jpg

0269_2.JPG

  • Like 1

Lol. I have done EXACTLY this. haven't fitted it yet but have literally all the bits, except i didn't buy the nismo installation bracket kit as i was going to fab them out of steel instead, they wanted like 300 bucks just for a few bits of metal.

I have a Setrab series 6 25 row cooler, and it is slightly too tall to fit into the nismo ducting but was planning to cut and fibreglass the duct to fit it correctly. I will get some pictures tonight to show you what the issue is.

the setrab rows are much shorter than the older greddy style coolers, so 25 row setrab is slightly taller and longer than a 13 row Greddy/Trust one (which is basically the same core as the nismo one)

A25F22L_1_lg.jpg

 

 

0551_1.JPG

 

the greddy core is the same as the nismo one and I think would fit the duct perfectly. there are lots of 13 row coolers on the market with this older design so its an easier option. I went the setrab as I wanted the best cooler I could fit in there.

 

here is the genuine kit. the cooler is a 13 row one same as basically all the japanese brands, and now china copies.

55810-4_2.jpg

and here is what the nismo bracket kit looks like (21308-RNR45):

nengun-2669-05-nismo-oil_cooler_kit.jpg

Edited by burn4005

My oil cooler mission was all kinds of painful: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/


Learnings:

- Do NOT buy a second hand kit

- Do NOT buy a Mocal sandwich plate for a street car (too much flow when cold) or if you want to run any sensors (who doesn't?)

- DO buy best quality hoses you can afford

- DO buy kevlar hoses so you don't have to stuff around with garden hose over it to stop rubbing, like I did

- DO install core in the guard instead of in inline with rad/AC/IC

Tl;Dr - Cheap out upfront and you'll pay manyfold later. Do your homework.

  • Like 2
47 minutes ago, Gts30t said:

Yep all that nismo stuff just made the ztune a piece of shit 

but most of the stuff on the Z-Tune isn't available to purchase.. 

9 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Look at the construction of the Setrab cooler and you will see it is superior to the "Nismo" one.

Seems like Setrab 25 row is a bit too big and their 19 row is a bit too small... Fail

 

Greddy 13 row oil cooler size is L299mm x H185.4mm x W50mm . got the info from here

841705850_m.jpg

841705850_m.jpg

Edited by etang789

I have a 19 rows on a rb20 14psi/0.9b of boost and its just enough on track. I could duct it properly to gain some more cooling out of it but on a 30% bigger engine and much more power I don't think that will be a good idea even if ducted proprely.

 

Better take the 25 one and make it fit, at least if the goal is to track it. On the street the 19 rows will suffice.

  • Like 1

Pretty severe driving if you need an oil cooler on the street? I'm yet to see a street where you can sit on WOT for long periods...

I've got a 19 row Mocal on RB25DET Neo at 20psi and it seems to be fine on the track.

Pretty severe driving if you need an oil cooler on the street? I'm yet to see a street where you can sit on WOT for long periods...

I've got a 19 row Mocal on RB25DET Neo at 20psi and it seems to be fine on the track.



I have noticed that the oil temp gets up there on those really hot summer days in bumper to bumper traffic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...