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Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

Piggaz

By Piggaz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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HarrisRacing
HarrisRacing

Note to all. Finally moved my cam gears on the dyno. Spent 4 hours there yesterday (on a dynocomm inertial - which will soon be eddy brake). I now see what a V-cam would do for you. Moving my Pon

minesskyline
minesskyline

Here's some updated pics

Deano 1
Deano 1

?

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Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
49 minutes ago, acsplit said:

It's normally PRP that has 17 revisions that their customer pay the privilege of doing the r&d for.

haha.. yep, I experienced that with their R35 Coil kit on a NEO head.

  • Haha 1
Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

haha.. yep, I experienced that with their R35 Coil kit on a NEO head.

Not to derail, but what issues? I have the 1st gen PRP kit and I (touch wood.. NOT Diddy's) never had any.. altho i did hear that later revisions people experienced misires etc.

Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted

Maybe been mentioned but I would have thought with a straight gate you would have to run both ports. As you don't have the natural pressure to push it open. I just noticed in the pic you are only running the top port, which will keep it closed but the bottom port should push it open ? 

  • Like 1
Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Butters said:

Maybe been mentioned but I would have thought with a straight gate you would have to run both ports. As you don't have the natural pressure to push it open. I just noticed in the pic you are only running the top port, which will keep it closed but the bottom port should push it open ? 

I thought the same but to just run gate pressure and use one port, you put your boost reference through the top.

 

When I took it for a blat while hooked up only to the bottom I let off the accelerator and at the last second I saw 46psi.

 

When using the Mac valve I use both ports, in my picture I was only using the top one because I was testing it on gate pressure.

  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Not to derail, but what issues?

The loom took 3 goes before it was right, wrong lengths each time, excess slack and one time it was too short.

I'm using the 1st gen, with those white stalks. I'm sure it's not isolating properly either, I'm running 0.4mm gaps to avoid misfires.

High chance the crappy white plastic stalks aren't doing their job.

Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

The loom took 3 goes before it was right, wrong lengths each time, excess slack and one time it was too short.

I'm using the 1st gen, with those white stalks. I'm sure it's not isolating properly either, I'm running 0.4mm gaps to avoid misfires.

High chance the crappy white plastic stalks aren't doing their job.

That sucks man. I am also running the same ones I think.. the white stalks with yellow o-ring. Did yours misfire from the start? Or gradually? Are you running the valley cover? mine didnt clear so I left it off, but probably for a good reason too, and im running .8 gap platinums. No issues at all so far, unless im running some weird gen.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Predator1 said:

That sucks man. I am also running the same ones I think.. the white stalks with yellow o-ring. Did yours misfire from the start? Or gradually? Are you running the valley cover? mine didnt clear so I left it off, but probably for a good reason too, and im running .8 gap platinums. No issues at all so far, unless im running some weird gen.

I've got the white stalks, and black o-rings from memory. Haven't done the spark plugs since it left the dyno 4 years ago LOL.

Was misfiring on the dyno when I fed it more than a bar of boosr, so I upped the dwell, didn't do anything, then I started to gap it down, and ended up at 0.4mm when it stopped misfiring.

It kind of clears the valley cover, but it's pressed hard on the coils, so I don't run it anymore.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Im not sure if its a good idea to put the valley cover.. it wouldnt be good for the coils I imagine. I thought about machining some holes or a design in the valley cover to get some ventilation but I dont want to ruin it. :banana:

The cooling is actually better with the cover on. The timing gears/belt does a good job of pumping some air in there. That's why the back of the timing cover has those louvres in it. With the cover off the air just goes away. With the cover on, it is forced to flow all the way to the back. It's still all very hot, but it is a little cooler with the cover on.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The cooling is actually better with the cover on. The timing gears/belt does a good job of pumping some air in there. That's why the back of the timing cover has those louvres in it. With the cover off the air just goes away. With the cover on, it is forced to flow all the way to the back. It's still all very hot, but it is a little cooler with the cover on.

I've heard this theory, and can totally understand it, but has anyone put a temp probe in there, in free air to see how hot it actually is with it on vs off? I haven't seen any real data to know for sure. :)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

I've heard this theory, and can totally understand it, but has anyone put a temp probe in there, in free air to see how hot it actually is with it on vs off? I haven't seen any real data to know for sure. :)

Not directly, but I measured the air temperature coming out the back (car running on dyno) and it was a small flow with some decent temperature in it compared to the temperature measured behind the radiator. Too many years ago to remember what the numbers were. Couldn't really quantify the flow rate though, so couldn't calculate a heat transfer rate, but my conclusion was that there was decent heat transfer to the air. Bro science, for sure. And granted, I will acknowledge that there are hot head/cam cover surfaces in there too, but they are only at ~100°C or less.

I really should do it again, with my fine TC taped down onto the coils, with the cover on and off. But getting the cover off is a enough of a pain in the butt that I'm not going to do it just for fun.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Not directly, but I measured the air temperature coming out the back (car running on dyno) and it was a small flow with some decent temperature in it compared to the temperature measured behind the radiator. Too many years ago to remember what the numbers were. Couldn't really quantify the flow rate though, so couldn't calculate a heat transfer rate, but my conclusion was that there was decent heat transfer to the air. Bro science, for sure. And granted, I will acknowledge that there are hot head/cam cover surfaces in there too, but they are only at ~100°C or less.

I really should do it again, with my fine TC taped down onto the coils, with the cover on and off. But getting the cover off is a enough of a pain in the butt that I'm not going to do it just for fun.

Time for a FFP with your upgrades, cover comes off easy then...

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
Just now, GTSBoy said:

FFP is a step backwards. Would need to add a supercharger to offset the negatives. Hmmmm....

Rajab plenum, best of both worlds.

Just need to machine off the ghastly logo.

  • Like 1
Watermouse Collaborator

Watermouse

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just need to machine off the ghastly logo.

U read my mind, going to machine it off or get a high temp vinyl etc stick on plate made up. There’s so many other ways they could have made it look cool.

Have the option anyway as I need to cut off the throttle body flange and get the dbw flange welded on.

  • Like 1

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