Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, mr skidz said:

Wonder why type A cams never get much consideration?
To date my smaller 2.7L is producing 20psi on 98ron earlier than 2.8L's on E85 with the same turbos.
Which is something to think about.

I get positive boost from 1,500rpm and starts pulling from 2,500 rpm which is where you want your cams to operate.

 


My boost plotted againt Paul's and biggest difference is cams and lack of head work on my part.
3b8b670bc05fbbf0b381dc6391478d10.jpg

 

 

Is boost pressure alone giving the full story of how much power the engine is actually making?

 

 

Good to see SAU never changes lol

I did type Bs to type Rs on a 2.6 with -7s, both sets dialed for response and both sets made same topend power but the type Rs hit full boost about 800rpm sooner 

I can't comment on V stock cams as I never used them in my 34 but the stock cams in my 32 dialed for response easy smacked the 34 for bottom end but when you take into account stock turbos and 4.11 diffs it's not comparable in the slightest  

The Type Rs on a 3.0 with RSs went 458awkw@28psi and I have since gone EU 260 cams and Audi R8 coils and .5mm over size in piston with .2 increase in CR, latest graph below

I am interested in your graph of pods V airbox for a R34 as we have hit a wall with boost and my tuner believes it's an intake restriction

I think dialed in the type Rs will give a better result then stock but the best question is will the result be worth the expense 

image.jpeg

  • Like 3

The graph I posted earlier, was with pods. I dont have a specific airbox vs pods back to back graph, but I was there and fitted them myself then spun it up.

14rkw, on boost sooner, and held boost easier.

Nothing else was changed between runs other than pods.

We had tuned for a new plazaman and gained some power and response, but the pods was done separately.

  • Like 1
38 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

The graph I posted earlier, was with pods. I dont have a specific airbox vs pods back to back graph, but I was there and fitted them myself then spun it up.

14rkw, on boost sooner, and held boost easier.

Nothing else was changed between runs other than pods.

We had tuned for a new plazaman and gained some power and response, but the pods was done separately.
 

Ok interesting, did you remove the bung from the feed that goes into the side guard ?

what have you changed on the intake, just airbox or intake pipes as well ?

I still run stock airbox and stock piping and curious of what parts create how much restriction 

Yes it had already been removed and I was running an apexi panel filter.

Nothing else was changed, literally just bolted on pods.

I have since changed to AFM deletes and KTS hard suction pipes but that was more for aesthetics.

I'm waiting on camtech to get back to me. 

Does anyone know what the max lift is you can go before requiring buckets? 

I was wondering if they could make me a 248 or 250 duration with a bit more lift, if possible. If no more lift can be achieved, then maybe just a 248 with the same lift. 

I'm inclined to wanna test cams, as I got a good result with the Sil, but I alos came to the realisation I've had the car for almost a year, spent over 20k on it and barely driven it. So Cams might get shelved for a while given the nicer weather is here and I should actually drive the thing and enjoy it. 

I still need to get the rims resprayed, and maybe get the calipers re-done, but again I should drive it for a bit. 

Admittedly from a guy who sells Cams, but interesting response. 

************

He recommended their 260 cam - http://www.camtechcams.com.au/niss_6cyl_rb26.html

"Hi Dan,

 

The cams to use is our 413a. see cam specs below."

*********

Which I thought was too big based on what we've discussed here and asked him  what he thought.

*********


" Hi Malcolm,

 
I've been told that's too much duration and will cost me response, potentially down low and mid range torque also due to overlap dropping dynamic compression. 
 
Thoughts? 


*********


He doesn't agree....

*********

"Hi Dan,

 

I think unfortunately the people that are giving you advise may be a little inexperienced.

 

The cam I suggested is the next size bigger than standard.

 

If you put anything smaller than want I have recommended you are wasting your time."

*********

Which is odd given I asked him specifically about the 250 degree Type R. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...