Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CTP Savings At Last in NSW Whilst With NRMA VVC

We've known for a while now that Shannon's offers discounts on CTP Renewals on cars that are insured by Shannon's. We also know how horrendously expensive CTP Premiums are, for reasons we can discuss elsewhere.

Now, NRMA Vintage Veteran and Classic are upping the ante. But there are hoops your need to jump through...

So, pay attention!

 NRMA%20VVC-2_zps2q27hsuz.jpg

 

The original NRMA VVC Invoice has been destroyed (by an NRMA office worker), but as you can see, on the accompanying form, I've written down $758 as being the Premium Due for my CTP Renewal.
On the original Invoice, it states that there is no accompanying NRMA Insurance that would ordinarily reduce the CTP Premium.
That's because NRMA is slow in linking the VVC arm to its CTP Renewals.

If I had paid online, I would have had to pay $758. If I had paid by phone, I probably would have paid $758. If I had paid at Australia Post, I definitely would have paid $758.

Now for the kicker...

 NRMA%20VVC-1_zpsdtz2qb67.jpg

 

By paying at an NRMA Branch - and here's the important bit... - asking to adjust the CTP Premium because the car is insured with NRMA VVC, I have saved $280!!!!!!
Now I don't need to tell you that $280 can buy me a degustation meal for two at Tetsuya's. But hey, you have better things to do with $280 than by an empty-nester like me!  

 

 

 

  • Like 5

Awesome stuff Terry!! Thanks for sharing.

I wouldn't mind lining up at an NRMA branch to save that kind of money. Although most of the times I've gone into an NRMA branch, the most I've had to wait is a couple of minutes.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

I tried this with my renewal coming up. $900 for CTP this year (metro Sydney, male, aged 25) and I was keen on the saving. Got to the branch and asked about it, they said "no" immediately because there's nothing they could do about my age. They mentioned that I wouldn't see any savings on CTP until I'm 30. Tried again on the phone with NRMA VVC and they said the same thing. I'll try again next year I guess. 

  • Like 1

After recently going through the NRMA claims process after hitting a kangaroo and the entire repair process taking 6 weeks to repair a headlight, passenger side guard and bonnet on a Toyota Avalon, I would trust any insurance company underwritten by IAG with extreme scrutiny. I was promised that the repairs would be completed by a certain date and because it wasn't I now have a car over 1000kms away from where I now live with no practical means of getting it to me... :glare:

25 minutes ago, salavace said:

I tried this with my renewal coming up. $900 for CTP this year (metro Sydney, male, aged 25) and I was keen on the saving. Got to the branch and asked about it, they said "no" immediately because there's nothing they could do about my age. They mentioned that I wouldn't see any savings on CTP until I'm 30. Tried again on the phone with NRMA VVC and they said the same thing. I'll try again next year I guess. 

Damn, doesn't sound like ill have much luck then.. 

On 10/29/2016 at 10:20 AM, Terry_GT-R34 said:

I wonder if other states have links set up between NRMA VVC, RACV VVC, SGIO VVC etc and their CTP section???

 

QLD appears to however through a different mechanism, for regular ol' me it's $380 state wide for Class 1 (i.e. Car and stationwagon) interestingly there is a class for  vintage, veteran, historic or street rod motor vehicles' which is $75... whether your car would qualify for this or not I do not know...

 

  • Like 2
4 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Parents have been with NRMA for decades, had a couple of claims, no issues (had hire car so no loss of transport).

I'm glad your folks have had a good run with NRMA, mine has just been an ongoing headache! Loss of transport wasn't our issue, they promised that the car would be repaired before we permanently moved to QLD, and because it wasn't we had to abandon the car and I now have to sell the car via proxy. Had they been upfront with the possibility of a delay I would have slapped a wrecker headlight on it and dealt with the rest of the repairs in QLD.

To be honest, it has been many years since parents made a claim. One claim was a "disabled" person on a motorised scooter running through a busy roundabout and hitting the rear guard of my mum's Commodore. Took two years but NRMA sorted that out (won the case). Oh Police charged my mum with neg driving for doing literally nothing wrong (she paid the fine for some reason). We had problems with the painter not matching the colour right (it was Botanica Mica) but that was between painter and my dad (NRMA preferred repairer), my dad got him to repaint it for free and it was sorted then.

So hearing your story I'm actually not surprised. Were they waiting for Nissan to get the parts or something? They always give it to the cheapest quote if you don't use your preferred and that shop can stuff everyone around.

52 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

They always give it to the cheapest quote if you don't use your preferred and that shop can stuff everyone around.

This is probably where I went wrong... It was their "NRMA approved" repair centre in Rosebery... 

It was a 2000 Toyota Avalon and the story they gave me that they received a guard that was also damaged from a wrecker and I got this news the day before we were moving. This news also came after they had the car for a week and after they first inspected the car two weeks prior. NRMA / IAG took the stance of "we aren't at fault so we aren't doing anything about it"

Now this was all over a sub $5k car, if I had to go through the same process with my old Skyline that I was unreasonably and emotionally attached to I would have properly lost my shit

  • 1 month later...
On 11/14/2016 at 8:25 AM, salavace said:

I tried this with my renewal coming up. $900 for CTP this year (metro Sydney, male, aged 25) and I was keen on the saving. Got to the branch and asked about it, they said "no" immediately because there's nothing they could do about my age. They mentioned that I wouldn't see any savings on CTP until I'm 30. Tried again on the phone with NRMA VVC and they said the same thing. I'll try again next year I guess. 

Same here.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure if you're being serious? I, and all the car people i know, ALWAYS use a torque wrench for wheel nuts. I assumed any car person, apart from tyre centre monkeys with rattle gun in hand, would do it properly.  Anyway, no further reply from me on this unless legit discussion from OP or his query so, over to you, knock yerself out.
    • I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
×
×
  • Create New...