Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

21 hours ago, Hadouken said:

Wow. You're in your 30's and complaining about the gtr being uncomfortable?

Soft man, soft.

*Looks at the suspension in the car...*

I see the issue here. :D

  • Like 1

Josh said: 
 

With a lovely chassis like the 34 with some decent rubber and power, the valving performance offered with the X-R series I feel would be ideal. 

The Blue series are an excellent package for the price point but are a street/comfort orientated style setup that when using your car for even spirited street driving may not offer the support needed with your level of rubber and the AWD. Blue series are $1590 inc GST and come with default spring rates of 9kg front and 3.5kg rear.

The difference between the X-R and X-C is all in the valving, this determines how a shock works and gives it its characteristics. The X-C series are developed for comfort and ride quality only, so again I feel if wanting to exploit your chassis and power this would be a little lacking compared to the X-R series.

The X-R series paired with the spring rates recommended are aimed at being the best blend between performance and ride quality with only our custom valved Red series offering a better blend.

Nah, get the Blue and tell them street use ;).


Massive difference between my TEIN and Ohlins (all second hand), Ohlins are "street" setup and valved/sprung softer, so driving around is much nicer.

TEIN and current HKS suspension can get airborn, Ohlins rode over them quite nicely (for a short stroke damper).

Would be even better with the "better" R34 chassis. But then I don't know how smooth your roads are compared to Sydney.

A mate bought some Blue for his Evo8, probably more comfortable than the stockers.

On 10/29/2016 at 11:15 PM, Terry_GT-R34 said:

Post-2011 ISF

 

Magnificent low Km "IS-F" at Earlwood/Sydney. Silver.
I've driven this one, and it's nowhere in the 90s..., or 80s..., or 70s...
You can contact God_speed here on SAU

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

What was your take on it Terry? 

* Response is immediate without hesitation 

* I never used the brakes in quick succession to detect any fade

* Cornering is really good whilst having driven M3s before. Good tyres on the car help of course.

* Power curve through the gears is strong and seamless

* Steering has good feel but it's not as connected compared to a GTR of course.

* Comparable certainly with any  M3 I've driven. So whilst it's a buyers market especially for the next 10 weeks, try it out. when you plant your foot down, the V8 sound is sublime . 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...