Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, in71ce said:

I just spoke with Shannons and all just car customers will be transferred to them as they are underwritten by AAMI, hopefully prices dont change lol

...unless they go down. ;)

For those of you who do track days, Famous Insurance also cover you for this up to $10k or your sum insured whichever is the lesser - it's an additional option which you need to choose (and pay for of course).

My series 3 R33 GTR is with them, $45k value and $1100 a year - every single modification listed.

They also have an association with CAMS Australia, which Shannons used to have however this is now with Famous.

Edited by stag98
  • Like 1

Not particularly. An extra $400 a year (thereabouts) when I sought cover for it, and it covers damage to your car as a result of a collision, but excludes cover for damage due for an incident if caused by mechanical failure such as if your brake hose splits and you hit someone or an oil line bursts and it catches fire (which is fair enough!)

Level 2 licence is required and this is generally what most people who partake in regularity events, drift days etc hold.

If you're doing multiple track events a year, it isn't a huge amount to have some piece of mind.

Page 46 of their PDS, and written pretty self explanatory - http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/45707_Famous-Car-Insurance.pdf

Edited by stag98
For those of you who do track days, Famous Insurance also cover you for this up to $10k or your sum insured whichever is the lesser - it's an additional option which you need to choose (and pay for of course).
My series 3 R33 GTR is with them, $45k value and $1100 a year - every single modification listed.
They also have an association with CAMS Australia, which Shannons used to have however this is now with Famous.


Famous quoted me $1700 for full comp insurance on r34 gtt sedan. Its only got intercooler mod and wheels n suspension
Clean record driver and over 30yr old
Not particularly. An extra $400 a year (thereabouts) when I sought cover for it, and it covers damage to your car as a result of a collision, but excludes cover for damage due for an incident if caused by mechanical failure such as if your brake hose splits and you hit someone or an oil line bursts and it catches fire (which is fair enough!)
Level 2 licence is required and this is generally what most people who partake in regularity events, drift days etc hold.
If you're doing multiple track events a year, it isn't a huge amount to have some piece of mind.
Page 46 of their PDS, and written pretty self explanatory - http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/45707_Famous-Car-Insurance.pdf


The odds of collision at the track are far less than f**king up and going into a barrier. Also it only covers cams events. So if you hop between aasa and cams events you are then stuffed.....

I do maybe 2 cams events a year and 3-4 aasa ones.

Just received a letter from just cars. They won't issue any new policies after the 17/1/17. Existing policies will run until renewal is due and customers will receive a renewal offer from Aami 5 weeks before there policy expires.

Waits for Aami to tell me my car is too modified. Lol.


Damn that's gaids. Lucky my R33 shit box modified floating barge is with NRMA Vintage and it cost less than 1/3 the cost of my stock Mazda 3 SP25 lol.

R33 is insured for nearly the same price as the SP25.

Makes no sense.

 

Damn that's gaids. Lucky my R33 shit box modified floating barge is with NRMA Vintage and it cost less than 1/3 the cost of my stock Mazda 3 SP25 lol.
R33 is insured for nearly the same price as the SP25.
Makes no sense.
 

I should move to Sydney to take advantage of this [emoji12]

so what is reasonable? with Shannons here and pay about 700 per year for ' market value' (currently around 10,500) comprehensive on a modded R33..Old driver, no claims. Only thing that concerns me is I don't have salvage rights...which would be the real value if the car was ever a write off.

1 hour ago, hardsteppa said:

so what is reasonable? with Shannons here and pay about 700 per year for ' market value' (currently around 10,500) comprehensive on a modded R33..Old driver, no claims. Only thing that concerns me is I don't have salvage rights...which would be the real value if the car was ever a write off.

go to NRMA Vintage Insurance, it's half what you're paying + you get free road side assist/tow if you're 100km+ away from home.

14 hours ago, admS15 said:


I should move to Sydney to take advantage of this emoji12.png

Racv offer classic / veteran / vintage cover in Victoria, literally same deal as the nrma one. I've got my z32 on it,  almost a quarter the price of my previous shannons policy.

16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Damn that's gaids. Lucky my R33 shit box modified floating barge is with NRMA Vintage and it cost less than 1/3 the cost of my stock Mazda 3 SP25 lol.

R33 is insured for nearly the same price as the SP25.

Makes no sense.

 

It does make sense, because the NRMA V&V scheme is specifically designed to cater for a certain assortment of vehicles, there is also a usage limitation on the V&V policy as well - where as the SP25 would likely be on a normal motor policy and on frequent usage.

My R33 GTR ($45k) is on a limited use set up with Famous and it costs less to insure than my gf's lancer ($14k) which is on an everyday usage.

I guess insurance generally only makes sense (when dealing with loss ratios, claim frequency, average claim costs, claims per age demographic, claims per vehicle make, claims per vehicle value brackets etc) for those of us who work in the industry ;)

2 hours ago, stag98 said:

It does make sense, because the NRMA V&V scheme is specifically designed to cater for a certain assortment of vehicles, there is also a usage limitation on the V&V policy as well - where as the SP25 would likely be on a normal motor policy and on frequent usage.

My R33 GTR ($45k) is on a limited use set up with Famous and it costs less to insure than my gf's lancer ($14k) which is on an everyday usage.

I guess insurance generally only makes sense (when dealing with loss ratios, claim frequency, average claim costs, claims per age demographic, claims per vehicle make, claims per vehicle value brackets etc) for those of us who work in the industry ;)

I guess so, however the SP25 has a 10k km limit and the R33 has a 9k km limit... which is why I find it funny... so "technically" both cars "could" be used the same amount of time.

However it does come down to statistics, more crash =  higher premiums.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...