Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ended up getting PL Fabrications to modify the 350GT pedal as I wasn't too happy with the pedal position from my quick and dirty vice and mallet approach.

Closer to OEM positioning now 😁

Subframe weld in plates, bushes, diff bushes and LCA bushes came today too. Whole subframe coming out soon for a big refresh and bracing. No traction excuses here! Close to 500kW and hooking up is my plan 🚤

IMG-20211117-WA0008.jpg

IMG-20211117-WA0009.jpg

  • Like 3

I did the whole subframe and reinforcement and replace all bushes.

It didn't help traction, if anything it was worse (stiffer everything). And I have half that power :P

  • Haha 1

Well to be fair, mine has fractures where the factory welds are so getting even more power it's probably wise to strengthen it 🤓

It does make the rear end stiffer, as does solid bushings etc, but as part of this job you would tuck the subframe up into the car more and adjust the angle of the whole thing to improve roll centre and anti-squat geometry.

Silvia was a lot more planted in the rear after I did that (but with very little power, so we'll see what I think with new engine). 

 

The big change honestly for me was all the new bushes. I didn't only do the subframe, I did every single bush in every location that whiteline or superpro offer. This was an expensive undertaking but man the car drives like it's new.

It's not hyperbole, it drives like it is a new vehicle. Is it better performing? Lol not really probably, but does it provide enjoyment that your 20+ year old car drives like it is factory fresh? Yes it provides enjoyment thus I'll put the 'worth it' stamp on it.

  • Like 1
On 17/11/2021 at 11:46 PM, admS15 said:

500KW you know what that means. Time for samsonas. 

LOL... well when the box does go BANG, I might look at either a DCT or ZF. I prefer the ZF approach as it seems more nicer to drive, and a bit more accessible (replaceable each time a box grenades).

 

@KinkstaahI'm probably heading down the same path, if the OEM bush hasn't been replaced (yet) it will end up being some form of new arm. Rear end already has Hardrace camber arms, traction arms and tie rod arms/ends (HICAS deleted). Front to rear all ball joints have been replaced too.

Front wise, all I need to do now is replace the front lower control arm bushes and install an adjustable upper control arm and it should be sweet!

  • Like 1
On 17/11/2021 at 9:48 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Close to 500kW and hooking up is my plan

hmm, in that order? I thought you were married? :P

ZF for surrree I assume they are easier/cheaper to find.

* edit * so i replaced the air filter in my hatch with a standard Mann one. Now the B48 doses slightly... I'm getting bad ideas.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
On 18/11/2021 at 12:48 PM, niZmO_Man said:

hmm, in that order? I thought you were married? :P

Hooking up in a non homo way :D 

  • Haha 1

Fan mounting solution, no more straps through core shit. And the OEM condenser/overheat fan is too thick and doesn't flow much air so was removed yonks ago.

Mock up fan used, a Davies Craig 12" in the way.

IMG-20211118-WA0004.thumb.jpg.f40f75947ad581b7a12c2c19244b48c3.jpg

IMG-20211118-WA0006.thumb.jpg.9eb22dd3f58c1ae1c366fb36bd49982f.jpg

IMG-20211118-WA0002.thumb.jpg.1b98c27fa0c0c3620380565f7e3fabce.jpg

Catch can time, needed the cnuto to be big. What PL Fab came up with was about 5.2L, it will be drained back to the sump with a ball valve too. Street duties no drain, track work will drain. New washer bottle will also be tucked on the side where the OEM coolant bottle was.

IMG-20211119-WA0009.thumb.jpg.26cdf4a31375e555701605d41466fe2b.jpg

IMG-20211119-WA0012.thumb.jpg.a2bc114ed32791f58bba66d0ad61f0b3.jpg

IMG-20211119-WA0020.thumb.jpg.49d2be867f0123ce7c30888bbffeb5ff.jpg

Fuark I feel poor looking at this.

  • Like 6

Unfinished state because some shop I ordered fittings sent my fabricator the wrong things.

Small delay but what's a day or two in comparison to a 11 months of a non functional car 😂

Side box thingy is the new washer bottle.

At some stage will have a filter element shoved in there (yes I'm going to the dark side, no more plumbed back catch, although it shouldn't be too hard in future, just will look aids with a hose across the motor).

IMG-20211122-WA0004.thumb.jpg.81ae0f081976ab7709c5300012f4395f.jpg

IMG-20211122-WA0008.thumb.jpg.709922c6a63cadad476b171e37031308.jpg

 

  • Like 1
On 23/11/2021 at 7:35 AM, ActionDan said:

Did you did the clutch fan? 

I thought consensus was it was very difficult to get anything to cool as well? 

Still have the clutch fan, and OEM shroud :) 

That fan is the A/C condenser / overheat fan.

  • Like 1

Now with fittings, also forgot to mention the oil filter block has been relocated and a new bracket made. Once everything is complete, it will be powder coated black.

I'm going the OEM looking theme, raw plenum but with black pipe work and black other things. Keeps it OEM+++++++++ if you know what I mean.

image.thumb.png.55f039dfc00f53c536da76b8f1cf6858.png

  • Like 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...