Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In my car the air box is "pretty good" and goes down to the chassis rails, it's fed by a 90mm pipe and is open to the back of the headlight which has cool air moving around it. 

IATs are good under track conditions, any car idling in traffic will suffer. 

Just saying, a sealed airbox is not the be all and end all of for a car in motion - you just need as much external air coming in as possible and that's good enough. 

 

  • Like 1

If I am really bored at some stage, I could install some form of scoop behind the headlight and piping into the pod area, but that's a low priority item until I want to milk every single kW out of the setup.

My goal is to make 500kW at the hub, if I achieve that then I probably won't bother with anything else lol.

Its definitely doable but application obviously changes things. I have seen 60+ temps with an unshielded pod vs 21C temps idling for a good 60+ minutes in a 21 degree shed.

Same behaviour at 35, 40C days (though obviously the air temp becomes the new ambient) but 0% heatsoak which was really suprising. Enough for me to get an airbox made up (or in progress)

Turbo cars different due to intercooler etc. You really just want to know how close your AIT is to ambient when you're using the car in the manner you care about AIT's in.

  • Like 2

60min idle time sounds like bullshit already, zero temp rise sounds like mega bullshit. 

Or faulty sensors... 

Anyway, get an airbox, it will help regardless. 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Will have some data soon, once I get the car back - especially it's quite warm/humid in Sydney as of late. Should make for some good logging.

Oh yeah, I have a EMAP too now, that should be fun :D 

  • Like 1
On 1/12/2022 at 12:31 PM, ActionDan said:

60min idle time sounds like bullshit already, zero temp rise sounds like mega bullshit. 

Or faulty sensors... 

Anyway, get an airbox, it will help regardless. 

 

Shrug, same sensor, same car, tested on multiple different days, I watched it live on skype.

This is the airbox. There is a funnel/scoop that draws air from a duct made in the bumper. It is sealed all the way till said duct.

image.thumb.png.eeccd3ecc562775cc313a72dc83f2752.png

The sensor itself was pre-TB, but also tested inside the box (initially) then moved to pre-TB to make sure the reading was right.

It was all done to convince me to buy a box for my own setup, after many times of me going "But my AIT is fine on the track etc etc". Which it very well may be. But then I went for a drive in the hills and my AIT of about 38-45C as over a 2 hour log of spirited driving seemed fine, then I got out of the car and noticed it was cold AF at top of said mountain. Felt to my un-calibrated skin that it was about 10C at most.

Given MCM picked up 25+ kw from dropping air temp from 50C to 33C, it seems like a good idea in my application too, to get those temps as close to ambient as possible. It's entirely plausible we all get dynoed at XYZ KW in a dyno room with the bonnet open, then drive away -20KW due to changing how the engine runs in the real world.

In _my_ application at least, being N/A.

In any case making an airbox fit fully is a bit of a timesink.

  • Like 1

Absolutely. I have 100mm PVC pipe into stock R32 airbox. PVC has bellmouth facing brake duct in GTR bar. Would not contemplate any other intake that backed away from those properties (cold air, only sourced from outside engine bay, rammed in when at speed). Keeping the density as high as possible into the turbo intake is just as important as keeping the density as high as possible after the intercooler.

Bashing a 110mm hole down through the inner guard behind the headlight felt like a big undertaking when I did it back in ~2000 though.

  • Like 3

Boring stuff, subframe out to replace the Hardrace bushes with GKTech offset bushes (to bring the subframe closer to the chassis thus reducing the angle of the LCA this theoretically would mean less toe out ramping on compression. Subframe will be also braced with the GKTech weld in plates.

The lot will be sent and powder coating boring black.

 

IMG-20220112-WA0015.jpg

On 17/01/2022 at 12:28 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Summernats 2023 Grand Champion?  Would probably go ok in the burnout comp!

Better start drinking shit beer (VB) and get used to the taste of shit beer and better start growing me a mullet.

Business up front, partayyy at the back cnuts!

  • Haha 1
On 17/01/2022 at 1:26 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Better start drinking shit beer (VB) and get used to the taste of shit beer and better start growing me a mullet.

Business up front, partayyy at the back cnuts!

Do Asians do mullets?  I think you'd need one to stop the paddock full of bogans from tea bagging you! 🤣

Dunno how they'd cop a Skyline full stop.  Not Aussie or Mercan enough.

BTW, nothing wrong with shit beer!

Now installed, fun times as the GKtech manual makes no mention of modifying the subframe brackets/brace plates. Needed to lop off the hump as the GKtech subframe bushes are flat and don't have an indent.

Heaps of swearing later, it's in 🥳

IMG-20220119-WA0001.thumb.jpg.edc345d65ee39a1462d2ee460b3145fd.jpg

IMG-20220119-WA0003.thumb.jpg.7c41e5c18a2abf1936b7accaf92c016e.jpg

IMG-20220119-WA0002.thumb.jpg.6fedb2b5576114398acb900cd2b2238e.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...