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On 26/10/2022 at 7:12 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Don't worry, in 10 years' time you'll be glad you kept your $150k R33

Straight swap for gravitating BMW

Tonight's activities, trying to fix the ABS.

New relay in and nope, still have an ABS light. Will check fuses next, followed by sensors then ABS computer. If all else fails, will retrofit a new ABS system (yeah nah, jk).

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Then made the car appear a bit more legal(?) Lol... Factory 18s officer.

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  • Like 5
On 17/10/2022 at 9:55 AM, BK said:

You use a link right ? The link you can reassign the cam signal cable to actually be the crank reference signal. On an Elite you can't as it is a fixed pin on the ECU, so they were sending them out preconfigured for link wiring on cas wiring pins 1 and 3.

Yes a reluctor generates its own voltage. Can't believe Haltech told you to supply it 5v !

From what I can see the neg reluctor side needs to be pinned to ground and the pos side signal output pinned to the Elite TRIGGER +, so on a cas loom that would be the 2 outside pins 1 and 4.

The way NZ wiring is sending them out appears that they are pinning the signal to the HOME + which will never work on an Elite unless you swap the pins at the ECU end which you don't need to do.

Got my NZ wiring cam trigger today and got it working on the white 32.

FYI what I posted above is correct to work on the Elite. Pin the reluctor to the 2 outside pins using signal ground and crank trigger +, no ecu repining required.

  • Like 2
3 minutes ago, BK said:

Got my NZ wiring cam trigger today and got it working on the white 32.

FYI what I posted above is correct to work on the Elite. Pin the reluctor to the 2 outside pins using signal ground and crank trigger +

Nice, you'll notice you'll have less trigger count errors at higher RPM compared to the OEM Nissan CAS.

I updated my post on the Kebabtech forums too. Funnily enough someone also PMed me on the Kebabtech forums asking for help regarding the NZ Wiring Cam trigger too.

I still would much prefer the proper Ross crank trigger setup I have on the blue 32 with DC powered hall effect sensors though - can't beat measuring the crank position from the actual crankshaft.

I sort of winged it with the trigger arming voltages, something you don't have to worry about with the hall effect sensors. Might have to have a look back at your voltage table for comparison, but I gotta say so far so good. The timing light is not jittery like a cas and is rock solid, so without going proper crank trigger these definitely seem like the next best thing especially for the price.

  • Like 1

Of course, nothing beats a crank trigger.

However this is decent for low powered RBs (sub 500kW is considered low power these days lololol). 

I might look into a stronger timing belt to avoid belt stretch. Currently just has an OEM belt in there.

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Of course, nothing beats a crank trigger.

However this is decent for low powered RBs (sub 500kW is considered low power these days lololol). 

I might look into a stronger timing belt to avoid belt stretch. Currently just has an OEM belt in there.

I had Gates racing in both 32s but as everyone knows they are a pretty noisy belt. Still running gates in the white 32 but changed to a Nismo in the blue 32, sounds like oem in comparison. In my 33 I'm using a Power enterprise belt which also sounds like oem.

The issue with gates belts seems to be the nylon glass chord construction making them very stiff, whereas the Nismo, Power enterprise, HKS etc. have a high kevlar count in their construction making them very flexible and therefore sound less whirry.

  • Like 1

Maybe Gates, but I am judging that purely based off of their stiffness. Maybe I am talking out of my arse too because Nismo and the like would not use kevlar for no reason, as it has a higher tensile strength than steel. I think I'll be stuck in the Nismo or Power enterprise belt camp.

I'm surprised you can hear a properly tensioned timing belt over the fan and injectors, gates or not. I run the gates one in the race car and can't hear it at all. Obviously they would get noisier between the belt and idler/tensioner bearings if over tensioned

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