Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Well seems my car is about on par with what everyone else is seeing so fair enough. Will just have to run 98 for the longer cruises. 

I'll just have to put a big fuel cell in the boot for some extra capacity lol

I used 50L on Saturday on 98 (150kms)....

Used a lot of 3rd gear (5-6K rpm up and over the hill and back)...

1 minute ago, ActionDan said:

Really? that's way more than I expected? That would be about what I used? 

Yep - I filled it with Shell 98 on the way out  and less than 1/8th of a tank left.  Haven't refilled to verify- but given it takes a bit over 60L - 50L is what I would expect.

I was probably working harder in the rev range to keep up....

My 25det neo with ~380 kw to wheel

Driving from perth to albany, i got about 450 km to a tank, on the light, maybe could have squeezed another 10 or so ks out of it.

No narrowband or wideband hooked into ecu/tune.

I think thats pretty good haha.

Bigger turbo with generally softer response sub 3000rpm and less restrictive turbine can all contribute to fairly respectable fuel consumption in those conditions, for sure.  I agree with Jared, pretty good result when you think what it does when the taps are opened.

4 hours ago, jay-rod said:

My 25det neo with ~380 kw to wheel

Driving from perth to albany, i got about 450 km to a tank, on the light, maybe could have squeezed another 10 or so ks out of it.

No narrowband or wideband hooked into ecu/tune.

I think thats pretty good haha.

was suprised to see Albany had E85. was expecting you guys to bring 20 jerry can each but was suprisingly few there.Now just need it in Bunbury!!

15 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Interesting. I've just been putting straight United Race Blend in it, though I notice the sensor never reads above 80% despite my testing showing 90+ with the basic water/shake in tube tester. 

Same, sensor tends to read around 79-80% (genuine gm continental). Only ever diluted it with 98 once, took ages to get back up to 79-80%

Yeah, if you run flex then it's really hard to get up to >80% if you aren't using straight ethanol - which means that it's also not too hard to keep it floating around 50-60% if you occasionally top up with a bit of petrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...