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  • 2 weeks later...

Trying to get motivated on the shed again.

Electrician has been out and confirmed I can run power from the other shed (good news). Just teeing up a trencher and supplies to go in the ditch (storm water also). 

In the meantime, I had gone back and forth about what to do with the slab. I couldn't justify 2k in materials plus my effort to epoxy it knowing what's going to be going in and out and what it's driving on/through the get to the shed (red clay/dirt/gravel etc). I was mainly wanting an epoxy/painted finish for the uniformity as the slab is just ugly as f**k with trow/helicopter burns and pigment/oxidization differences where batches of concrete meet/the surface was finished too dry etc.

Concrete supplier is comfortable the mix is fine and the slab is sound but that it's not "ideal" aesthetically. I didn't bother chasing the concreter himself because he was a tool bag which is why I axed him after the slab and got a different crew to build the shed. He came recommended from another member in the car club. 

I didn't want the hassle/cost/risk of going hard core on the acid etching as a test showed it was already at a good porosity for accepting sealer (plus the shed is above a water course). Grinding is also messy/costly etc so in the end I'm just accepting it as an ugly rural slab that's going to get worse thrown at it anyway.

I wanted some level of oil protection and sealing so just ended up opting to use the same sealer I used on the last shed and had no issues with, there was also a mix up with how much I needed and I took some of it back which resulted in some kind of double refund so I've effectively paid $0 for the materials to seal it. 

The types of discolouration I mean, there's also differences in surface texture as you can see in other pics where the light behaves differently off the sealer (3 coats with grip additive).

20210203_122750.thumb.jpg.46ede7e1eb9a78fdfb3e5e00b2a6cd96.jpg20210203_122755.thumb.jpg.2acdbd307c2fa3338c9b9cc0f7d8b350.jpg

 

I did use a neutral concrete wash on it first and pressure washed the shit out of it to find that some of the foot prints I'd left on it myself, red clay, refused to come out fully and apparently require special chemicals to break down the iron oxide.... 

Anyway, I guess that will have to do and I'll just press on with power/fit out. 

20210203_123412.thumb.jpg.c544290d4b945943ff1df91355482c8f.jpg20210203_123556.thumb.jpg.555d69f032f5afe0e3d5f31c4b189080.jpg20210203_124907.thumb.jpg.3cadb8424a5f5484201c410dcde32354.jpg

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 2

Hoping to get the apron poured in a week or 2 with my usual/preferred concreter. He also had a look at the slab "bit ugly, but nothing to worry about".

He was mostly interested in where the hoist pad is (200mm thick 3.6m wide section, double mesh) and was happy with that. 

Hoist is gonna be a life changer. 

Yeah it is sure easier on the back with a hoist.

I got my slab epoxy sealed (with a flake finish because it hides uneven-ness). I did cost a(nother) couple of thousand and they did a bit of grinding to get the surface right.

floor.jpg

We have the same issue with dirt tracking in, this is what it looks like with daily use on a rainy year. A broom every now and then and probably an annual pressure wash is all it needs but it looks good, keeps fluids spills up and is not slippery so I am very happy.

floor2.jpg

No idea how long it will last, it has been down 18 months with no issues yet. The paint I had on my previous garage was lifting in some places where I'd had sticky tyres on hot days after about 5 years and I wasn't looking forward to redoing that. I've got unsealed concrete in the farm shed and that is impossible to deal with the oil leaks.

Cheers Duncan, matches everything I've seen and heard.

Wasn't willing to spend the extra and have the hassle in the end for what is just a big farm shed.

I've seen some nightmare stuff with epoxy lifting and having to try and repair patches from impact damage etc.

This product is very forgiving, can be applied straight over top of itself with no special prep/actions and still keeps the oil out.

Good enough for me.

Looks like apron going on this week too :)

 

The roof is done with aircell which is pretty normal for most sheds. I won't do walls as it seems fine in there on days that I'd be wanting to work in there anyway with the whirlybirds.

I "might" chuck a swampy on it, maybe.

For a house you'd do proper insulation and plaster it in, roof and walls. 

Sheds are cheap for lots of reasons, partly because they are not classed as habitable structures to council.

  • Like 1

You can certainly put proper insulation in the roof/walls and plaster/mdf/plywood line it for substantially better temp control. 

You don't often see it done that way. 

I did consider a toilet, but for the hassle/cost/compliance for the rare times it'd be used, not worth it for me. Same with shower. 

I'll probably chuck some poly into the trench with the storm water/elec so I can have a tap on the side and maybe a sink inside. I had a sink in the last shed and it almost never got used so dunno if I will bother with that I've got an ultrasonic cleaner now so if I'm washing something it'll go in there and if I need to rinse it off I can just use the tap outside. 
 

I think the water is worthwhile. I've got 1000l cube catching some of the rainwater at my shed and use it a fair bit for washing/rinsing stuff and hand washing. No drain/waste of course, just runs to ground nearby

Yep, the other shed is already connected to a 33kl tank which is always full, I'll only connect one side of this shed to it (incase the other shed ever gets disconnected/removed).

The other side will just go to overflow, we have so much bloody water here. 

I probs used the sink previously mostly for hand washing lol

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

Builder is back on deck, has been lots of stuff going on his end - lucky there was no rush lol 

Decision was made to CNC the chambers, builder says;

"The chamber's will make the engine much more efficient essentially, usually 4-5 psi less for same HP"
"Torque gain would be 40-50nm"
"Top end hp probably not so much, but far less chance of detonation so more stable timing map, it'll be far more knock resistant" 

All sounds good to me and not huge money, head has not had mounting surface machined yet so that will be adjusted to ensure comp lost is regained. 

Apparently the limiting factor for power/torque and longevity (given a suitable turbo) will be the block strength itself now. Extra work has been done in the bottom end on the mains, skirts, and to the girdle to tie it all together, but it's not sleeved nor are the coolant passages between cylinders "wedged", his view, based on what Nismo do/have seen, is that these are a false economy and cause more stresses in other places that then crack anyway. Seems like a hot topic, I see valid explanations and opinions from a number of good sources for and against so I'll go with what the builder reckons. 

I'm not aiming to run it at absolute max output anyway, the head room is there to ensure it can do what I want as easily as possible.

Still on the fence about if I just sell the long block (buy a basic forged SR/do a basic forged rebuild on CA and then have a weekender as well) put it in Silvia, or put it in something like an 86 (or something else with a better chassis than the S13) etc etc. 

NFI how to really make that call so have kept putting it off until engine is here. 



 

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

@robbo_rb180 boarder restrictions dis dat, actually no idea. Workshop building my motor taking ages, then again I did send them a motor with a destroyed head and cracked block lol.

 

  • Like 1

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