S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[No Crust Racing]

Half the kit is here so got a start. Just jap rears from eBay here in a few days, sleeka spares front kit direct from them, still stuck in Melbourne (rom SA) since the 22nd =\

Realised I do not have a 36mm socket so couldn't remove the rear hub, which is the half of the kit I have. Plan was to disconnect the arms to swivel the knuckle down to remove drive shaft and get access to the bolts at the back, after disconnecting them all the thought occurred to me that I can probably just disconnect the shalf at the diff and push it out of the hub instead and leave the arms, oh well. 

Do have a 30mm so prep'd the front. In love with new impact gun, in love with hoist, in love with small 12v power ratchet, Wish I had bought some of this years ago, makes life and working on the car so much nicer. 

Car looking even sadder now.

[No Crust Racing]

Front hubs on, bearings feel quite tight which I read is normal for new assemblies, aimed for the middle of the 150-220 odd Nm of torque on those. 

Rear hub and knuckle removed, awaiting some parts. The bushes in the knuckle look good but part of me is thinking do I replace them while it's out? I don't have a bearing press but wondered if they are small enough to be doable in the vice. 

I might just price up the bushes and make a call after that. 



 

[Duncan]

you definitely want to do them now, particularly the toe/hicas one. If you aren't getting a 20t press try local shop to push them out

[No Crust Racing]

Hmm ok, they look/feel fine 

GKtech make a poly bush version but it seems the factory one is more like these hard race style, so I assume that would be the way to go. 

Polyurethane S/R/Z Chassis Rear Knuckle Bushes (pair) (gktech.com)

REAR KNUCKLE/HUB BUSHING - 6738 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

[Duncan]

well my thinking is they make a big difference to feel and predictability when they are right, and it is hard to impossible to change on the car. Given it's for track use I'd take the time and money to do them while it's apart to save having to chase some weird handling issue in the future

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 01/11/2021 at 10:15 AM, ActionDan said:

I don't have a bearing press but wondered if they are small enough to be doable in the vice. 

Something like this will get them out, I did the same on my own shit box - albeit it was the HICAS ball joint but same same.

[No Crust Racing]

Costs the same as a 20t press when both bought from total tools.

I have access to a bearing press through a mate, might be one time I don't buy the tool for myself. 

Maybe I'll ask Santa for one

[Duncan]

On 01/11/2021 at 10:46 AM, ActionDan said:

Costs the same as a 20t press when both bought from total tools.

I have access to a bearing press through a mate, might be one time I don't buy the tool for myself. 

Maybe I'll ask Satan for one

He is always willing to help out, comes at a price though

[No Crust Racing]

You can't just edit my post to make a joke, that's abuse of power. 

Are you in Australian Politics by any chance? 

 

[Duncan]

Hey, I just fixed your typo

[robbo_rb180]

Definitely do the bushes while you are there but go the whiteline rubber bush as I have found them better than poly bushes or just go to rose joint inserts. 

Hoists just make it so much easier to work on cars, smashed out a full service and tyre rotation in 40mins last week. 

[No Crust Racing]

The whiteline bushes are over 2x more expensive per bush set vs gktech- define better?

Hard to justify the cost for spherical really if I'm not doing the other arms as well. 

 

[robbo_rb180]

Found the poly stuff would bind up on the lca bushes. Do it once and do it right like you have with the motor. 

How you go organising the roll cage? 

[No Crust Racing]

The hardrace ones still look like a good middle ground then?

I need to go look at a cage frmo one of the car club members who had it done where I was looking.

Then I need to remove more shit behind the dash bar and decide how best to get the glass out. 

[Duncan]

glass out is best done by mobile windscreen guy, even then 50% chance they will break it.

[No Crust Racing]

Yep I spoke with one and he said that. 

 

The front isn't too bad, you can still get them, but if they break the rear quarter glass I would likely go Perspex as they are no longer made.

 

I'm thinking I just get them to do it at the fabricators?

Rather than do it here then transport it.

[Duncan]

Yep, and if they don't break it, get it put back in again before the car leaves. Windscreens are a pain to transport safely

[No Crust Racing]

Some spares arrived yesterday, to my untrained eye they look decent. 

The block is a legit virgin bore at 86mm. 

Crank shows no signs of spun bearings or scoring but will need to be "UV magna flux crack tested" (copy paste from my builder I am not that smart). If it checks out then that's the real gem of this lot as they are getting harder to find. 

Not sure if I'll build a little DIY forgie on the side or just tuck it all away "just in case". 







 

[No Crust Racing]

Not bad. All new pins/clips, seals etc, powder coated black for a bit over 1k delivered for the set. 

Have GKtech weld on rear caliper adaptors to go on also. 

Buy my old my old brakes or dash/interior
 

[No Crust Racing]

No Crust Fabrication hard at it last night getting to work on the rear caliper adaptors, feels weird to cut shit up. 

Seems to look like the install photos on the GKtech website? 

I will have a little test with the cut tabs to dial the welder in. I was going to get a mate to do it, but if I shy away from every welding project I will never learn and big thick steel is more forgiving. Maybe I will just take it around to his place and have a go with his guidance...

There's always just that thought in the back of your mind that if you don't do a good job your calipers might fly off 0_0

Unpacked all the calipers and one of the front calipers has a shit coating so that will likely go back for swap as I wasn't planning on painting them.