Jump to content
SAU Community

Daymo's R32 GTS-T


Recommended Posts

On 9/8/2017 at 6:36 AM, DaymoR32 said:

$210.00 off eBay, theres another brand where you get a little bit more for $20 dollars less, but i'll stick with the brand that's been around a while.

i always thought it was more expensive than that. Might be worth getting some for my daily. It has no sound deadening and shakes and rattle like nothing else!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i always thought it was more expensive than that. Might be worth getting some for my daily. It has no sound deadening and shakes and rattle like nothing else!


Yeah I thought it was super expensive too until I had a look on eBay.

Well I’ve got one sheet left of the 9 sheet pack and this is what I’ve got done so far, just got to put it on a few more fiddly places then the floor is done.

IMG_8806.jpg

IMG_8807.jpg

IMG_8808.jpg

Ordered an amp and speaker wire kit too, gonna tape all of it down to the floor prior to sticking the carpet and interior back in so it can all stay in place for future upgrades. Thinking about getting some 6.5” component speakers and a 10” sub and amp in the boot. Forgotten what music sounds like in this car with the original speakers having more holes than Swiss cheese!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, CRSKmD said:

Did you happen to weigh the stuff before putting it in? Have heard it has some heft but does a really good job for sound deadening. 

It said 8.9Kg's on the box, i'm sure i've read somewhere else that the original sound deadening weighs 13kg's. Don't really know what to believe though as i'm sure the original sound deadening doesn't cover anywhere near as much as what i have just put back in. Either way, i'd rather be able to hear and speak in the car than hear absolutely everything that's going on outside and deal with heaps of vibrations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, vxsr33 said:

Nice progress so far.
I would also prefer the sound deadening, 8.9kg isnt much and i would assume the dynamat would work better than the old factory stuff.

Thanks, Yeah im sure it will do a miles better job, apparently this stuff is good for keeping temperatures down too. I suppose every little helps when you don't have air-con :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wiring kit arrived yesterday, so I made a start on feeding the speaker wires from the doors through to the boot, then fed the power cable through a hole in the firewall.

Once I’d done that I put two RCA’s from the centre console and ran all the wires along the transmission tunnel.

Whilst I was doing the wiring I got a 6mm power cable with an in-line fuse fed through which I’ll use to power the fuel pumps as the standard wiring won’t be up to the job.

IMG_8817.jpg

IMG_8819.jpg

IMG_8820.jpg

IMG_8821.jpg

IMG_8822.jpg

IMG_8823.jpg

IMG_8825.jpg

And then finally I got to chuck the carpet back in!

IMG_8829.jpg

I’ve also managed to get the door locks out of the old car, I’ll be chucking these into the new car tomorrow I reckon. Then I can throw the door cards back on.

And then it’s just putting most of the interior back in place and freeing up more space in the garage!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work with the dynamat, must feel good replacing the factory stuff with newer fresher stuff.

I removed all the sound deadening from my 32 sedan, sometimes regretting it. I guess I could always do what you've done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work with the dynamat, must feel good replacing the factory stuff with newer fresher stuff.
I removed all the sound deadening from my 32 sedan, sometimes regretting it. I guess I could always do what you've done.


Cheers, the previous owner removed all the factory sound deadening so this was the only real option for me. I’d have left the factory stuff in personally.

A 9 sheet pack will do the floor, and I still have a little bit of a sheet left to stick a bit behind the component speakers when I get to round to buying some.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i managed to get a few jobs done this weekend,

First up, i got the door locks out of the old car and into the new one, little bit of fumbling around to get the circlips out, but apart from that it was mainly hassle free.

IMG_8860.thumb.JPG.d477f0147758ff4bdf277b92b7fcf950.JPG

i then proceeded to stick most of the front half of the interior back in, i'm keeping the air/fuel ratio gauge and oil pressure gauge out for the time being until i decide where i want to mount them. the boost gauge will also need a permanent home as it is just laying on the passenger floor for now. they were originally housed in some makeshift gauge holder where the centre vents sit, but i want something a bit more driver focused this time around.

IMG_8861.thumb.JPG.20aef9e64ee9421ce25e7f3299297659.JPG

IMG_8862.thumb.JPG.43705e5f1c1010afa826c1c050330d20.JPG

IMG_8863.thumb.JPG.e47e9eeac10f7464b0eb82c8569bb780.JPG

I also need to stick the plastics on around the steering wheel and underneath the dash, i need to swap out the steering wheel boss and indicator stalk though, as some wires have been cut. so i will install them plastics once i remove the boss. gonna make a remover at work out of some scrap flat bar and a welded nut, i'm only gonna use it once so no point buying one.

Once all that was done i set about changing the brakes over from the old car onto the new, (the discs are cracked on the new car so thought i might aswell get some more use out of the old ones). Also snapped a pic of the coilovers, they are literally brand new which is good to see!

IMG_8864.thumb.JPG.053233737661f942491ec5fa860b6c41.JPG

Old Brakes:

IMG_8866.thumb.JPG.eba6ce56846015b43a69ddfc62a9e54d.JPG

New Brakes changed over, yes the discs have surface rust, but only because they've been sat for a while:

IMG_8865.thumb.JPG.2583c0f39cc9b44a64d9b2156b9966fc.JPG

I also thought id fit the uprated front sway bar that came with the new car while the front end was lifted up. unless im missing something, i dont see how this new one will fit, and i cant find any information about a 30mm front swaybar for the GTS-T so im presuming its an S13/14 item or something. and i'll also need some D-clamps to make it fit.

comparison between old and new:

IMG_8869.thumb.JPG.e45e8ce183348b5eac3141392879f079.JPG

So i chucked the standard sway bar back on and lowered the car back down to the ground.

Moved onto the rear end, noticed the new car had a hicas lockout bar, and still has all the hicas stuff in the back, im gonna rip all this out and fit the eliminator kit from the old car. so i set about taking the rear hubs off the old car as these ones already have the tie rod ball joints taken out. Also got a nice suprise when i took the rotors off, turns out theres Project MU handbrake shoes in there!

IMG_8872.thumb.JPG.b894da6a14f36d4f19f8290e279a90eb.JPG

IMG_8874.thumb.JPG.8be145c58e80706e5afe2c5558b3eb3c.JPG

I also thought id throw in all the adjustable arms that came with the new car, i did fit the lower control arms, but didn't like the fit, so chucked the original ones back in.

IMG_8878.thumb.JPG.d8339d18ed27fb71f7b1616e09ff60d1.JPG

IMG_8881.thumb.JPG.7cb9d737080430af4f8a897df15b71a5.JPG

I've still got to reassemble it all, but will do that tonight. then move round to the passenger side and do the same again. Slowly ticking jobs off the list!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Not much of an update with regards to progress on the car, struggling to find time these days to get anything done apart from work!

I managed to finish the rear end off, got all the adjustable arms fitted and the Hicas lockout bar in place, also removed all the Hicas lines from the car.

IMG_9018.thumb.JPG.601376d738201dbc41988c30c4f4ad3f.JPG

IMG_9019.thumb.JPG.b43b3d65a902252f6fa1446fc47d758b.JPG

And the rear calipers are on too. Brakes just need bleeding, but this will have to wait till the engine and gearbox are in place.

IMG_9021.thumb.JPG.923c07f3bf27149bd8ce0504772b452d.JPG

Also got the steering wheel on and tidied up the remaining wiring so the interior is pretty much complete.

IMG_8926.thumb.JPG.99dbefbd3c6a9bc294a916825f029f56.JPG

IMG_8927.thumb.JPG.637129ce65aac65cc4c0034fdcde1e6a.JPG

I also needed to buy a "sensible daily" as my housemate is getting rid of the car i'd been borrowing while the skyline was off the road, so here she is.

IMG_9095.thumb.JPG.f8c72d6d7051e77c0f3474ae13c5841c.JPG

IMG_9091.thumb.JPG.837e1a1f39483fd0672fecf489e128f2.JPG

Hoping i can get some time in the next month or so to finish the skyline off. If not i'll probably put it all up for sale so someone who has the time can actually finish and enjoy it as i hate seeing it sat doing nothing!

Hopefully some updates will happen in the very near future! 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, PranK said:

Damn that suspension looks great!

 

Damn I want an Evo! :)

Im sure the wheel alignment place will have heaps of fun when it finally goes for an alignment, at least it looks nice :4_joy:

Yeah the evo is really fun to drive, its nice to have air con and be able to fit 4 adults in a car comfortably too!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...