Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the airbox mod 3d printed and temporarily screwed it on as it's only minimum infill for trial. 

Fits perfectly and the cold air inlet sits just outside the main frame rail. 

Also modified the power steering reservoir by making my own bracket as it didn't clear the bonnet when closed in the stock one. 

IMG_20190301_175923.jpg

IMG_20190301_194538.jpg

IMG_20190301_194559.jpg

IMG_20190301_194515.jpg

  • Like 2

So I got it going today but have a few issues.

Turbo coolant hose has split, kinda knew it would.
Power steering keeps leaking at the pump so just going to use the old setup
Crank position sensor is throwing a code so it could be f**ked
It keeps overheating. Doesn't matter what I do, i can't get it to not overheat.

Edited by Sack87
1 hour ago, TukeH said:

Whats that strange cliking sound is? 

When the water hits the power steering belt it makes that weird noise. You can see the water spitting out of the radiator neck. Took me a few minutes to figure out what it was haha

Edited by Sack87
  • 2 weeks later...
17 hours ago, Akshunhiro said:

Nice work with the airbox. Would you mind sharing the STL? Or, can I buy one off you? My 3D printer is still waiting to be assembled haha.

Let me test it out first to see how it goes with the heat, then I'll look at selling the STL file if it doesn't melt haha

It only just fit on the Makerbot Replicator bed so yours needs to be the same size. 

So I got the coolant bled to a point where I could drive it without overheating and run the engine in for 100km.

Installed a GFB G Force 3 boost controller on a little bracket I made up that fits in the vent. I can monitor AFR later on when I put another sensor in and protect the engine incase it leans out. So many cool features with this unit. 

Also had a mate dip the grill in carbon fibre. Came out really good and matches nicely with the ARX kit. 

IMG_20190315_092023.jpg

IMG_20190315_092041.jpg

IMG_20190315_092208.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't had much luck with the car as of late. Noticed there was engine oil coming out from the bell housing and whilst under there, I also noticed oil coming from the turbo between the cartridge and turbine housing. 

Pulled the box out haphazardly as I didn't have a hoist and pulled the turbo back off too. I cut the rear main seal by accident when installing it on the stand without being able to see the back of the crank. Turbo went back to MTQ for warranty and they reckon nothing was wrong but replaced the oil seals. 

Fitted new rear main which is an absolute f**k to get in there and box and turbo back in for test drive. 

I put new viscous oil in the fan hub last night and it works/sounds like it's moving a lot of air now. Went to go for a drive, look under the car for leaks after putting it all back in andddddddd oil is pissing out of the turbo feed banjo. FML. I checked every fitting was tight before I put it back in so MTQ have done something there. 

So today I started pulling the turbo back off again to fix that. 

20 minutes ago, andynogo said:

Yeah... It's one thing after another hey. Keep on trucking- you'll get there! Half price boost night 17 April at whoop ass... Might be a few of us going...

I would but i'll be on arvo shift. I plan too make it down there soon before seasons end.

So it's back in business, no leaks so much success. 

Hob drive still says its overheating though but the gauge does not move whether it's 75 or 105.

The new fan oil helped a bit but I think it might be a faulty sensor. 

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...