Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I'll give you one thing, you;re not wasting any time.

I don't think new turbos need a break in period, they either work or they dont. 

Post results when you have them :)

 

What Dan said^^^ 

Turbo's dont need a run in. Just make sure you unplug your coil packs and turn the motor over for a while to push the oil through to the bearings so they don't spin up dry when the car is started ?

  • 2 weeks later...

presetting aem

sard 800cc
1.7 = inj duty 64% (hks 2510)  1bar (34%)
1.2 = inj duty 80% (gtx2860) 1bar (45%)

gtx2860
2500 0.22 
3000 0.36 
3500 0.56 
4000 0.76 
4500 0.9 
5000 1.07 
5500 1.15 
5600 1.2 
6000 1.2 
6000 1.26 

hks 2510
2800 0.3 
3400 0.5 
4000 0.7 
4500 1 
5300 1.5 
6100 1.7

slightly larger lag on sensations
Need a slit gear that reduces the lag
  advance intake and exhaust => more low-RPM power, less high-RPM power

I thought it was by now ancient history , the GTRS was a better replacement for the "GT2540R" and ditto the GTSS (-9) for the "GT2510R" . None of these are perfect but the -9 sounds pretty good for the power it was intended for .

The inaptly named GT2530R is really what's now known as a GT2860R with a specific 63 trim compressor wheel .

GTR twins are a PITA with late GTX compressor wheels because they were designed to work with a port shrouded compressor housing . 

The Holy Grail is probably a single twin scroll EFR and at a guess the 7670 would please most sane users .

Has anyone ever used one on the rare HKS cast low mount 26 manifold ? 

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, discopotato03 said:

I thought it was by now ancient history , the GTRS was a better replacement for the "GT2540R" and ditto the GTSS (-9) for the "GT2510R" . None of these are perfect but the -9 sounds pretty good for the power it was intended for .

The inaptly named GT2530R is really what's now known as a GT2860R with a specific 63 trim compressor wheel .

GTR twins are a PITA with late GTX compressor wheels because they were designed to work with a port shrouded compressor housing . 

The Holy Grail is probably a single twin scroll EFR and at a guess the 7670 would please most sane users .

Has anyone ever used one on the rare HKS cast low mount 26 manifold ? 

Not that I know of, however a lad I know is currently doing an EFR7670 with the .92a/r twin scroll hotside on a tubular twin scroll manifold on an RB26 with basic cam upgrade... was running N1 turbos previously.

The only time I think twins would truly work is if they were both mounted on proper manifolds, externally gated x2, intercooler x2, plenum x2 (1-3 & 4-6). That way there's no turbulence or turbos "fighting" to push into one cooler pipe/core.

By that time, effort and money you're better off with a big fat modern twin scroll single.

-5s! while there maybe some newer tech out there these are proven too work well, 330-370 dependent on health and supporting mods
had them on 34 gtr, no real lag (as reving past 5k was always the case ;)

What is your goal?

The turbo combo had already made the car a little more laggy.

Adding big cams will make that worse, and to be clear 272 cams on a stock 2.6L is a big cam.

Testing shows nothing beats the stock cams for response (248) but that you can gain a bit of midrange without sacrificing too much response with Tomei type R or type A (250 and 256).

Duration is only a small part of it though, lift will help response and bigger lift needs valve springs. Ramp rate will also help it feel not as lazy, but aggressive ramp needs valve springs as well.

I used Kelford 264 after reading lots of reviews about the Tomei having soft ramp rates.

I've got strong torque from just under 4k rpm to redline, but my car has a few other mods to help and I run e85.

I'd suggest you talk to Kelford Cams, Camtech or Clive Cams about your whole setup, current results and your desired goals.

solenoid rsp 100%, ofs 100% (Full boost)

3000, os 12.6, boost 0.3, ign 35
3500, os 12.12, boost 0.5, ign 32
4000, os 12.24 boost 0.7, ign 27
4500, os 11.44 boost 0.84, ign 25
5000, os 11.44, boost 1.01, ign 23
5500, os 11.55, boost 1.17, ign 21
6000, os 11.27, boost 1.26, ign 20
6500, os 10.75, boost 1.29, ign 18
7000, os 10.35, boost 1.25, ign 19
7300, os 9.8, boost 1.33, ign 18

rb26 can not rotate these turbines anymore. What can I do to fix this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...